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Rochers de Freyr

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 507
  • Aka: Freyr

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Summary

Freyr offers about a dozen sectors of very varied, high quality limestone, all within walking distance of one another and among which Belgiums highest climbable rock face. An-all around-crag.

Description

Freyr is the biggest and most prominent climbing crag in Belgium, offering pretty much everything a climber can desire from any limestone crag: multipitch climbing; slab, vertical and overhang climbing, a great atmosphere and easy sleepover facilities. Ideal for weekends or even longer periods of intense climbing. Freyr is immensely popular and arguably pretty harshly graded, so many of the easier routes have become pretty polished but remain nevertheless real classics.

A beautiful, somewhat expensive topo is for sale on many sites.

External topo with images: http://www.atoi.nl/public/freyr/rochers.htm

https://youtu.be/LkfstDnk-6c

A nice overview video

Access issues

Crag maintenance is done by the local Belgian Alpine Club (CAB - Club Alpin Belge). One must posses a CAB membership card or a membership card of another UIAA federated association. Climbing is only allowed in the designated sectors.

Nederlandse klimmers die lid zijn van de NKBV hebben toegang.

Approach

The crag is sandwiched between the river Meuse and the township of Freyr, just South of Anseremme. There is a designated parking spot (exclusively for climbers!) on the South edge of Freyr.

Alternatively leave your car in Anseremme and walk along the Eastern bank of the Meuse.

Frey is relatively easily accessible by pubic transport. You can take a train to Anseremme directly or to Dinant (trains go there straight from the Brussels national airport). Bus 25, unfortunately only driving a couple of times a day, can drop you of in Freyr - there's a bus stop at the parking spot (across from Auberge Le Freyr) or at the entry of the path leading to the sector Al Legne.

(:Parking:50.220059, 4.894965)

(:Start of Sentier des Pêcheurs:50.224647, 4.895201)

(:Start of Sentier Christiane:50.222862, 4.895610)

(:Start of Sentier de la Jeunesse:50.219560, 4.894038)

Where to stay

Climbers are allowed to spend the night in the designated CAB campsite, about one minute walking from the parking spot. Tents can only be installed between 6 PM and 10 AM. Expect a very inviting atmosphere, with dozens of climbers spending the night on weekends - it's ideal terrain for tents or hammocks and it's allowed to make bonfires in the designated fire places. CAB or KBF members (Belgian federations) are to pay €2 per night, others €4. There is also a refuge, a small barrack offering shelter to about 24 people (€4 or €8 depending on your membership status). The local terrain manager will collect the money in the morning, and if not you are kindly requested to leave the correct amount in the managers letterbox (next to the refuge/shelter, tagged 'guardien').

Climbers looking for a more comfortable stay can stick to one of the many hotels, hostels or bed and breakfasts in the area.

Ethic

Setting up new routes or retro-bolting in the area is not allowed without permission of the CAB.

Please reduce your use of chalk to a minimum and remove tick marks when done.

Using trad gear to improve route safety is allowed.

Many routes is Freyr have a top-out finish - please do not install top ropes on these routes.

Rappelling down is only allowed in case of an emergency.

Freyr is situated in a designated Natura 2000 site. It's a nature reserve: the place is pretty clean, keep it that way or clean up any thrash you come across! Some routes can be tagged with a red-and-white ribbon, which means the endangered Peregrine Flacon nests along the route, so please don't climb that route that time.

History

View historical timeline

The first route, 'La Grunne', was put up in 1930 by Xavier Grunne and King Albert I.

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