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Description

Sport Climbing. Several Routes, from 7a. From 10 to 20 meters.

Approach

Take Pista Cláudio Coutinho, walk for about 1 km from start at Praia Vermelha, Urca. Large boulder on the ocean side. First 11 routes are on face facing the track, going from left to right. Routes 12 to 16 are on the overhanging side of Pedra do Urubu, going from right to left. Routes 17 to 22 are on the back side, facing the ocean, goinf from right to left, facing in.

History

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Got famos with Wolfgang Güllich †'s ascent of the route "Southern Comfort", or "Via do Alemão" in 1987.

Routes

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Grade Route

First route on the face facing the track. DRBs at the top. It doesnt use the arête.

No bolts to lead on. Single ring bolt at the top.

Easiest one to lead on this face. Very nice! Single ring bolt at the top.

Very nice!

Small variant going from Urubito to Urubu Rei

Meets Urubu Rei a bit higher than Tentação

One of the nicest lines of Pedra do Urubu. Single ring bolt at the top.

Start: down a few metres from Speed, going around the boulder. It moves to the right and then up to DRBs.

Starts right of Urubu Sacana but quickly moves to its left, veering up to single ring bolt at top.

Around the obvious crack from left to right. Pre-placing gear is advisable. Small and micro cams, stoppers and RPs.

Can be led on trad. Starts from Urubu Sacana and goes right to reach the corner.

Beautiful, proud arete in a stunning setting. Starts with a dynamic boulder problem into balancy and nerve fraying top out.

resin holds glued on the rock. Not cool!

Overhanging flake with a bolt at the end for top roping

Arête

Starts at the Oposição do Urubu, then goes to the back of the boulder, facing the ocean. Traverses in diagonal left all the way towards the end of the boulder, crossing a bolt that does look too flash. The traverse is quite easy, only quite exposed. Usual route taken to set up the top rope for all other climbs.

Starts from Oposição do Urubu. When reaches the back face of boulder straight line up to DRBs.

Same start as Urubu Mestre but goes on to the right up to single ring bolt to the top.

Next one to the left of Urubu Mestre.

Starts at the bottom of the back of Pedra do Urubu traversing low to the left and then going up using the arête. Solo.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Pedra do Urubu.