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Summary

Where the classic Via dos Italianos is located

Approach

From the Morro da Urca track. When you reach the col between Morro da Urca and Pão de Açúcar, take to the right until you reach the face of the mountain. The Via dos Italianos starts right there, just to the left of the blocks of rock.

Routes

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Grade Route

Crux move (1st pitch) can be done on artificial instead. First pitch ends sort of in the middle of the variant traverse that connects the Via dos Italianos and Cavalo Louco. pitch 1: 50m; pitch 2: 40m. Take 9 quickdraws, plus slings and extra biners. You can also add a couple of small to medium size cams to reduce run out in the first pitch when you cross the end of a crack.

Mostly done on bolts, but cams and stoppers needed for the first 20m of the first pitch (small to medium cams or medium to large stoppers). It finishes at the anchors of the 5th pitch of Secundo Costa Neto and from there you can reach the summit in another 3 pitches (making it a total of 270m). You can combine pitches 2, 3 and 4 into 2 pitches. Pitch 1: 40m; pitch 2: 30m; pitch 3: 30m; pitch 4: 25m. One of the nicest climbs on the Sugar Loaf!

Probably the most classic of Rio's climbs. It's only 2 pitches long but it's usually done connecting to other routes along the west face, going all the way to the summit. The most common way is connecting with Cavalo Louco using either the Variante da Italianos para a Cavalo Louco or the variant Darcy Ribeiro and then linking with Secundo Costa Neto. Either way, from base to summit is approximately 270m of fairly easy and well protected climb. Take 13 draws. Pitch 1: 50m, pitch 2: 50m.

FA: Mario Arnaud & Andre Ribas

A variant that starts on the first bolt of Via dos Italianos going to the right. Only 4 bolts but quite pumpy. Nice!

Another variant to the Via dos Italianos, but starting a bit more to the right, between Cisco Kid and Artéria da Alucinação. Technical. 4 bolts.

Nice and a bit more exposed/run out than the Via dos Italianos or Cavalo Louco. pitch 1: 45m; pitch 2: 45m; pitch 3: 25m; pitch 4: 35m; pitch 5: 40m; pitch 6: 40m. Take 10 quickdraws. End of 2nd pitch is on the same ledge as CEPI.

First few meters need to be climbed in artificial (cable was removed after some accidents and deaths of non-climbers taking the route with no equipment).

ends at the last pitch of Cisco Kid. Need to take cliff hangers, small to medium stoppers and some micro-friends

To get to the base, you'll need to go down about 50m from the start of CEPI following a track along the margins of the mountain. Careful in the first pitch as there are frequently nests of hornets in some of the cracks/holes. pitch 1: 40m; pitch 2: 40m; pitch 3: 25m; pitch 4: 45m; pitch 5: 40m. The route ends at Cisco Kid fourth anchors, so if you climb Cisco Kid's last 2 pitches you reach the summit (total 280m). Take 12 quickdraws. There's a variant coming out of the 2nd anchors - the original goes right and finishes on a ledge; the variant goes kind of straight up, missing the ledge and heading straight to the next set of anchors. If you choose to take the variant, make sure your rope is long enough (60m). The variant is usually taken when the original is a bit wet because of the bushy ledge. The variant is a bit harder as well, rating VIsup Brazilian grading

You need to downclimb or abseil from the base of Pássaros de Fogo to get to the start.

A variant that connects the Via dos Italianos with Cavalo Louco. Traverses to the left from about 15m before the end of Via dos Italianos 2nd pitch and gets to near the end of the 3rd pitch of Cavalo Louco to continue to the summit.

Another variant connecting Via dos Italianos to Cavalo Louco. This time it goes from the anchors at the end of the second pitch of Via dos Italianos and moves to the left to reach the middle of the 4th pitch of Cavalo Louco.

A variant to Secundo Costa Neto, a route from the north face that ends on the west face and that is usually used as a continuation of Via dos Italianos. When connecting Via dos Italianos with Secundo Costa Neto, you need to take the Variant Darcy Ribeiro at the end of Via dos Italianos (from 2nd anchors) to reach a big ledge with a rock and a crack (end of Cavalo Louco's 4th pitch). You will then move diagonally to the left until you reach the anchors at the end of Secundo Costa Neto's 5th pitch. For Variante Troglodita, before you reach the anchors, you follow a line of bolts going straight up for another 20m until you reach a ledge where you can stop (single bolt). The next pitch goes up and slightly to the right, until you reach a big roof. Stop there and then go back to Secundo Costa Neto around to the left, until you get to the top of the roof, onto a ledge. To reach the summit, go to the right to the start of an arete and follow it up, then right around the roof, left and up.

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