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Description

Where the classic Coringa is located. Nice area with 5 climbs, 4 of which reach the Costão, from which you can hike up to the Sugar Loaf cable car area or hike back down.

Approach

Take the Costão trail at the end of Pista Claudio Coutinho, and 20m after the cement tower go up the trail on your left, next to some stone steps. This track will end at Escadinha de Jacó, the first route from the right.

Descent notes

Although you can abseil down, the preferred option is to climb up to the Costão track after finishing the first 4 routes on this wall due to sensitive vegetation along the abseil line.

Routes

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Grade Route

Used as a short cut for the Costão track and therefore commonly soloed. Starts at a streak of basalt on the wall. First bolt is at 15m high.

5.5 easy route, it starts a few meters to the right of Escadinha de Jacó. Ideal for those starting to lead as bolts are well placed and not too far from each other. All belays on double rings. Pitch 1: 35m up and to the right to reach double rings; pitch 2: 50m straight up; pitch 3 to the right to reach a ledge with double rings (25m). 11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Goes up a couple of ledges in the first pitch to reach double ring bolts after a slight diagonal crack to the right (40m). It traverses back to the left and up (30m). Last pitch goes up and left and then right after the third bolt to reach some blocks that will lead to Costão track. 10 quickdraws

A classic. Pitch 1: 30m; pitch 2: 35m, stopping at a nice ledge; pitch 3: goes right and then up and left. 35m; pitch 4 30m through a bit of vegetation to reach Costão track. 11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Gets harder as you move up, starting quite easy. Pitch 1: 40m going up and then traversing left at the last bolt before double rings; pitch 2: up 11 bolts then traverses left to double rings (50m); pitch 3: straight up - the hardest pitch with the crux towards the very end (25m). 12 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

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