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Grade Route

Route is bolted but only sparsely (no more than 3 to 4 bolts per pitch). Sometimes hard to see/find them, so good route finding skills are necessary, although it's mostly straight forward. At 3rd belay station make sure to go right from the ledge/tree. To the left is a variant graded at 5o A1 in the Brazilian grade system. 1st pitch (30m): 3 bolts on slab and belay from single bolt on ledge. 2nd pitch (50m): slightly left to tree, then ledge, up chimney with one bolt, then ledge and another chimney with 2 bolts and then below from ledge on DBB. 3rd pitch (40m): continue up chimney with one bolt, then past roof and ledge with there is a DBB, continue up passing trees to get to bigger ledge (salão azul) and below from tree. 4th pitch (40m): walk right towards the end of the ledge and up past a small ledge with one bolt, some loose rocks and thight chimney to get a single bolt. 5th pitch (40m): up chimney with 3 bolts to get to DBB at the end. 6th pitch (20m): up past 3 bolts to get to DBB. 7th pitch (20m): left and up past 3 bolts to reach DBB. 50m walk to summit.

Starts from Largatão, crossing left to reach the west face of the Toten. Full rack of cams and stoppers.

Up the ramp that goes to Chaminé Stop. Belay from the bolt on ledge, after passing 3 bolts and 25m. 10bolts to DBB.

Mixed climb (trad on 2nd pitch) Continues from Limiar das Lacas going right, left and then right again to reach the latter part of Limiar da Loucura. Needs small and medium cams plus stoppers.

Goes left after first pitch of As Lacas Também Amam.

Starts from end of As Lacas Também Amam. Walk left through vegetation and slightly up to ledge where you'll find double bolts for the belay. Pretty much straight up from there.

Starts from end of Revolta dos Gravatás. Abseil 20m to ledge on the left. Quite exposed.

Starts from base, just before ramp that goes to Chaminé Stop. Diagonally left.

Starts from 2nd bolt on slab that takes you to Chaminé Stop and joins Cacoete after 11 bolts

Most people only climb the first pitch (20m) as 2nd pitch is a grade III in the Brazilian system with quite an exposed traverse that takes you to Lagartão. Starts a few meters to the left of Cacoete

Connects Limiar da Loucura and Lagartão. Very exposed traverse.

Parallel to As Lacas Também Amam

Starts before the first belay station for As Lacas Também Amam.

Aid climbing through roof towards the end of Chaminé Stop

Combination of Limiar das Lacas, As Lacas Também Amam, Revolta dos Gravatás and A Um Passo do Espaço. Need to abseil from the end of Revolta dos Gravatás to A Um Passo do Espaço (20m).


Check out what is happening in West Face of Totem.