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One of the most classic routes in Rio de Janeiro. Extremely varied. Mixed climb with trad and bolts. Take large pieces of gear and medium cams. Pitch 1 (35m): up cracks to ledge. Two bolts. Pitch 2 (25m): take crack to the left to ledge then crack up to DBB on bigger ledge with vegetation. Crack on the right at start of pitch is for Variant Danças das Cabeças. Pitch 3 (25m): up to next ledges on right then left,and up crack that is bolted for aid climbing but now done free (crux, VIIc). Past ledge at the end of crack, then belay after arête. The variant Babuíno Silvestre goes to the left of the crack, avoiding it all together and it's a VIIa in the Brazilian system. Pitch 4 (25m): go left then up through a difficult technical face, up a roof, then right to reach DBB. Pitch 5 (45m): up and slightly left. Pitch 6 (35m): start moving right, up, then diagonally left and up again. Pitch 7 (30m): up to ledge then left towards vegetation and slightly right to reach second ledge with DBB. Pitch 8 (30m): straight up veering slightly right to bolt on bushes. Pitch 9 (30m): left and up to ledge near bushes. Another 50m walking to summit.

Needs medium cams. Starts from start of second pitch of Lagartão, the thin crack to the right of belay.

Full rack of cams and medium stoppers. Starts half way through Dança das Cabeças taking it further to the right, with a horizontal section linking it to Urubu à Vista

Needs micro-friends, cams from 1/2 to 2 1/2, and medium to large stoppers. Starts after Dança das Cabeças, taking the crack to the left of the main route.

Full rack of cams. To the left of Variant Senhor dos Anéis


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