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Grade Route

Mixed. Take full rack of cams and stoppers. Starts to the right of the base of Lagartão. Pitch 1 (35m): starts from ledge, up to next ledge on right then move left to get to the vertical crack. The bolts to the right are for the route Cocoricó. Pitch 2 (30m): straight up. Most people don't do the second pitch as the grade lowers significantly to a IV in the Brazilian grade system.

shares first 3 bolts with Urubu à Vista and then goes right and up to join Urubu à Vista again at the end of first pitch.

Starts on the ledge where the aid climbing of Lagartão begins and finishes linking with Chaminé Gallotti. First and last pitches all on trad. Take a full rack of cams and stoppers. Abseiling is only possible using 2 ropes. Pitch 1 (45m): starts moving right from ledge And up crack to DBB at the end of crack. Pitch 2 (25m): straight up. Pitch 3 (25m): up, then left, coming back right to belay from ledge. Pitch 4 (30m): crux. Straight up to ledge. Pitches 5 and 6: easy horizontal to the right until you reach Chaminé Gallotti

Connects Chaminé Gallotti and Lagartão. Starts from half way of the 3rd pitch og Chaminé Gallotti, after the first chimney section, moving on the ledge all the way to the left and taking the corner crack up till you reach the ledge at the end of Lagartão's 2nd pitch. Medium stoppers and cams.

Needs a couple of no.3 and no.1 cams and stoppers. Starts atthe start of Variant Kid going towards Xeque-mate

All trad. 1 set of cams. Starts about 4m before the final ledge of Variant Kid and goes towards the ledge of Lagartão.

Needs a couple of big pieces (no.4 cams) and some smaller ones (1 and 1 1/2). Starts one bolt before the first ledge in Chaminé Gallotti and goes to Faro Fino.

Worth taking 2 ropes in case an abseil is needed. Take at least one large cam (no. 4) and some large stoppers. Pitch 1 (20m): scramble up vegetation to belay at big tree. Pitch 2 (40m): easy climb up all the way to belay on large ledge with tree. Pitch 3 (50m): up 4 sets of chimneys to belay on ledge with big boulders. Pitch 4 (40m): up to ledge, slightly right, up some vegetation to large ledge. Pitch 5 (15m): crux. Corner to ledge at base of large chimney. Pitch 6 (45m): up chimney, out using corners to ledge then up some more to second ledge for belay. Pitch 7 (40m): awkward off-width chimney to ledge. Plus another 50m scramble to summit.


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