Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

One of the busiest walls in the country. Lots of routes, good as an introduction to Rio standards

Access issues

You have to to check in with the cable car administration office, at an entrance just left of the main cablecar door

Approach

2 min on a short trail for the first couple of routes

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Very first route to the left hand side of the north face of Morro da Babilônia. first pitch is a traverse to the left. other pitches go up. need to check abseil bolts to avoid down climbing the traverse. 6 quickdraws, a few slings to reduce drag and your anchor set is all you need.

Second route from the left on the north face of the mountain. Start is shortly to the left facing in to the end of the main entrance track. 7 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners for anchors.

Third route from the left on the north face. Start is straight at the end of the main entrance track. From Last pitch can take two ways to the top: best one is to link with Reinaldo Behnken straight up. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

This is a variant start to Salomith, linking at first double bolts. Only the first move is a 17. Rest is about a 13. Start at a plateau about 6m up from the main track that runs along the base of all climbs. 11 quickdraws to end of first pitch.

Fifth (if you count the variant Novos Horizontes) from the left on north face. First bolt is above a small ledge, a bit higher and to the right of Novos Horizontes. You can reach the summit by linking with Ricardo Prado after the third belay station. There are a few variants along the way so it's easy to mix routes up. The original goes up for 45m to the first DRBs slightly to the left. It then goes up and slightly to the right for another 45m to the second belay station. It then moves up a bit to traverse left to the 3rd stop, about 30m up. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra biners.

Sixth route from the left. Mostly a 13, with some 14/15 moves in the second pitch and the 17 move at the end of the third pitch. A fall during this move will likely hit a ramp, so watch out. 9 quickdraws plus a few slings to reduce drag and extra biners for anchors.

7th routhe from the left. Starts at an arete, and the first bolt is right after it. Mostly easy with a couple of moves at 18. First pitch goes for 50m and it's about a 13. Second pitch is again 50m, a bit harder, at 14/15 but with an 18 section. Third pitch is only about 25m and it's super easy. 4th pitch is again about 25m long, and about a 17. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Eigth route from the left. A bit run out. Mostly a 14/15. Last pitch is an 18. Finishes at the same ledge as Roda Viva

9th route from the left. Very close to Jacques Costeau (some would say too close!). Abseil from Roda Viva to spare the remaining vegetation along the route.

10th route from the left, about 20 right from Arca de Noé. Grade is very constant, unlike many on this wall. 13 quick draws plus a few slings and biners.

11th route from the left, about 20m right of Vilma Arnaud. First bolt is about 15m high. First route on this wall, from 1965. Very constant grade. 10 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

12th route from the left. Hard to find as first bolt is quite high and hidden by a tree. A bit run out, particularly last pitch. Veers diagonally to the right after 3 pitch. Better option is to go up straight after 3rd pitch and link with Ilusões da Guanabara. Better abseiling this way. 7 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Run out and full of traverses. Starts 15m from IV Sol. Up to first bolt is a 17, and then eases down to a 15/16. After 2 pitch starts going horizontally/diagonally right all the way to the top.

Starts after the firth bolt on Denise Macedo, taking it all the way straight up. Grade is quite constant at 16/17. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

14th route from the left. Starts at a 2m-high block. 14 quickdraws if you feel like clipping every single bolt in the quite over protected pitches.

About 100m to the right of Luiz Arnaud. Lots of vegetation for the first few meters. First pitch is the hardest. 7 quickdraws, slings and extra carabiners.

Starts at a high crack (easy). Tends to be a bit wet due to some vegetation around it. 7 quickdraws, some slings and extra carabiners.

50m right of Soleil. 5 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Starts on top of some blocks of rock. Half way through the wall it becomes a bit more run out. 7 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

20m to the right of Lindaurea Pereira

Overhang about 15m before Fissura Tropical

Not as nice as it used to be as some concrete slabs have been built there to prevent rock fall. Mixed route with one bolt at the start. Small and medium stoppers plus large hexes. Starts at thin crack just to the left of Diedro Pégaso.

First 25m is up a nice layback crack, then the rest 60m is face climbing. Although crack has been bolted, it can be done completely with trad gear. 6 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

60m to the right of Diedro Pégaso. Careful not to mix it up with an unfinished route 12m to its left, with bolts very close together. First bolt at around 8m from the ground. Very easy but run out. 4 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

20m right of Cervino. There's another unfinished route in between the two. Starts climbing up to a narrow rock ledge, then left up to the first bolt, about 15m high from the ground. Very easy but run out. 4 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Starts at diagonal and then horizontal crack to the left, right after Cabritos. After the crack it goes up on face climbing very run out. Crack has been bolted but can be fully protected with trad gear instead. 5 quickdraws if using just bolts, plus slings and extra carabiners.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Morro da Babilonia.