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Upper Wall - The Pavement

  • Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 1 hour
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 17

Seasonality

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Summary

The Pavement- the black blank wall right of the main cave area at Upper Wall. This wall hosts one of the hardest climbs in the Americas (Disbelief) 15B which took Adam Ondra multiple weeks to do.

Description

The Climbing is extremely cryptic, technical is an understatement. A winter on a campus board is very helpful as the climbing tends to be pure finger strength coupled with strong footwork. Cruxes tend to be bulging boulder problems. As unaesthetic as the wall is, the climbing is absolutely world-class. There is a reason international climbers spend many weeks here.

Access issues

nope

Approach

1hour

Where to stay

canmore yyc

Ethic

clean off tick marks, dont be a egotistical little dick, bring a good vibe and respect the history.

History

View historical timeline

Many hard men brought history to this wall. From JD LeBlanc, to Matt Pieterson, Josh Muller, Lev Pinter, Evan Hau and Scott Milton.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Lev Pinter; FFA Scott Milton; Scott Milton

FA: Rick Conover; FFA Scott Milton

1 5.13d
2 5.14a

Class for the grade! A must do, power enduro test piece.

FA: Scott Milton

Start to the left of a yellow streak. burly slaps up a small corner lead to a poor rest and a powerful crimpy section. If you're pumped the moves under the anchor will be heartbreaking.

FA: Lev Pinter

Start up Army Ants but make a vicious traverse right into a cool and cruxy dyno. If you fire it dont get too excited- the real redpoint crux lurks above.

FA: Scott Milton, 2010

The direct start to The Unknown Stunt Man. To say this route has footholds as hand holds is a massive understatement! The foot-hand match crux spat Ondra off close to 20times. Hard 15b apparently

FA: Adam Ondra, 2018

1 5.12d
2 5.13a

Sustained crimping off the ground leads to a midway shake, a dynamic move and a well deserved rest. If pumped the top will prove to be more problematic than anticipated.

Difficult and technical edge climbing, punctuated by good rests, lead to an improbable looking finish the utilizes some grisly footholds.

Start this crimpy line left of a big tree growing two metres from the cliff. A tough bouldery start is followed by an interesting sequence on blankness. Mellow climbing follows before a final bulge redpoint crux.

FA: Matt Pi, 2006

Start to the right of the big tree. Boulder up to some hidden holds over a small roof before causing baby blue stone to the anchor.

Ext to La Pause Cafe

FA: Evan Hau, 2015

Many intricate cruxes stand between you and the anchors including one at ground level. Start in a mailbox slot just left of the first bolt.

Short cruxes separated by good rests lead to sustained climbing, a stout deadpoint move and a dicey edit onto the upper slab. A final tough move below the anchor keeps things interesting.

This line features a hard boulder problem start and finish with technical climbing inbetween.

FA: Lev Pinter, 2011

This excellent route starts just left of a leaning tree (by climbing in from Rockemoveya then traversing right on a few pockets). A powerful mid pitch boulder problem is followed by a slab Crux at the top.

FA: evan Hau

You better have fingers of steel and ligaments of concrete. A hard series of pulls off the ground leads to easier crimps- a nice rest and very reachy crux. easier above.

FA: Josh Muller

Clip one more bolt above Class is in Session for a bump in the grade. Vicious and thin.

Set by Josh Mullet, 2015

FA: Read Macmullet, 2016

Climb the grey corner on miniature holds.

From the Boner anchor traverse right to some desperate undercling moves.

The last route on the far right of the wall. A viciously crimpy and technical crux at the second bolt stops must suitors in their tracks. If you survive this section, easier climbing with plenty of rests leads to a heartbreaking finish.

A vicious v7/v8 boulder problem off the ground into a great 12a. Not Classic.

FA: Scott Milton

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