Bedson Ridge All Trad climbing3 routes in crag
- Grades: US
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Highly compact featured & highly limestone multi pitch climbs
6-12 pitches (200-400m) routes. 3 routes have bolted stations and good gear or fixed pro -No illusion, Dr. Dive and Return to Splendour. The others require pitons & may have challenging route finding.
Need to use the CNR railway tracks to walk to the crag regardless of approach by foot or canoe. This is private property Seems to be tolerated, but trains are frequent and often there's no option but to wait it out as a 1km+ train slowly rumbles by. Do not go through the tunnel-there are security cams. Probably best to go over rather than around by the river. There is a rough road west from Brule that takes ~45min-1h starting at end of the paved road (pretty much a 1 road town). Many gates along road that need to be closed behind you as you drive. High clearance vehicle recommended. The last gate goes on to CNR land right beside the tracks. We parked at the end of this but at the end of the day a note was left on our car and the gate was locked. They left phone number to call to get combo. You may find this gate locked from now on. So may be easiest to park outside that gate and walk from there. (additional 1-1.5km flat walk each way).
It may be easier to approach by canoe if that is an option for you. It is described here: http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/jasper.rocks/Bedson.htm. Or drive in as described above. Go over railway tunnel and walk along tracks for about 30 minutes. Watch out for electric fencing around tracks on west side of tunnel. You will see B Minor cliff first and then B Major. For B Major look for a flagged trail leaving the tracks near the east end of a siding. It goes relatively straight up initially and then diagonals up to the cliff once you hit the open slopes.
Where to stay
Camping at Pocohontas campground in Jasper park or William Switzer Provincial Park. Lots of possibilities for primitive camping closer by
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