Mt Gimli

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 7




A 300 m high west face with numerous routes, and the much hyped south ridge in a beautiful setting. Generally solid gneiss. A guidebook is in the pipeline by D.Lussier, but some information on mountainproject or in the West Kootenay rock guide ( though this isn't exactly accurate)

Access issues inherited from Valhalla Provincial Park

Area is in a provincial park, but access is via a logging road. High clearance vehicle recommended, give way to logging trucks. Radio up and down if possible.


About 2 hour walk from car park even with camping gear. Summit height 2700 m. Ice axes and crampons needed for descent in early season.

Descent notes

From the summit, walk down the cairned trail to the north for 50 m and then down the east ridge. Two thirds of the way down cut back towards south ridge across talus. It is possible to go higher and abseil. Assess it before you go up. Can rap on slings with a single 60m rope from the third belay of the south ridge or from the Lunch Ledge with doubles. Dark side of the Moon has had a rap descent installed and Lusting after women can be rappelled from the top of pitch 4

Ethic inherited from West Kootenays

Be mindful of wildlife, especially in more remote areas.


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Grade Route

The line obvious from the carpark, and the most popular route. Starts in the corner at the base of the ridge, and stays within 10m of the arete for the entire climb. Cruxy first pitch, with a more exposed move around the roof on pitch 8.

Takes the prominent open book corner in the centre of the west face to a roof halfway up, turned to the left. Possible to rap off from top of pitch 4 but not after this. Pitch 1. 35m up left slanting flake then back right to belay at slung boulder P2. 35 m up left slanting flake, passing a rappel station 5 m to the left on ledge. Continue 10 m past this stepping right to ledge with fixed wires. P3. 5.10b 40m Up stacked flakes until just below rooflet and hand traverse righteous corner system and up to small foot ledge and flakes to belay. There is fixed gear 5 m higher but not a good belay spot. P4 5.9 35 m up line to below triangular roof. Turn this to left then trend right up face before stepping left to 2 bolts under large roof. This is last chance to abseil. ( two 70 m abseils will get you down) P5 5.10d 20m traverse left under roof then up P6 5.8 15 m up to ledge P7 5.7 35m move to l side of ledge and up flakes to alcove P8 5.8 50m up from alcove then left to L facing corner P9.5.3 50 m up to summit ridge Descend via east ridge

FA: David Lussier & Jen Olson, Nov 2019

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