Routes as sport in South Vancouver Island

(Roche Cove)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hummingbird Wall)

Sustained 10c/d moves until the final crank fest 12draws

a strenuous start puts you into the crack a few moves later you are at the crux with its hidden holds and thin feet

Run out and Loose. “RIP”

Bulgy little blimpy ledges, feels exposed with big run outs

Start at the base of the bulging slab -- a couple of shared bolts with 10c to the left.

Fun climbing on some good holds -- nothing tricky, but the sun can be in your eyes at certain times of the day. Two rap-rings for anchors at the top.

A bit run out up high.

Starts with a slab and heads into a shelf under the roof, stay right up and over, then go left up the dyke and finish with a steep climb up the face

Potential for a lot of rope drag (over sharp rocks) bring an alpine sling or two for extension.

Recommend rapping and not lowering.

This route needs to be cleaned! (August 2022)

Steeper and more technical than it looks. The first crux is at the second bolt and then it's fairly sustained 5.9 to the last bolt. (Look for the jug up right to finish) Make sure your belayer is paying attention. For t/r take the faint trail up and around to the cliff top. Rap to WTS station (just over the edge) from trees.

The leftmost climb on the lower wall

(Height is an estimate) Rightmost route on the lower wall

Start up Brackyramphus, take the right most bolt line to the first anchors of Electric Donut

(Height is of only the first pitch)

First pitch is 11a

Second pitch is 10a

First pitch is sport and crosses over Groove Thing. Second pitch is Trad (10a)

Second pitch is 5.9

Second bolted line from the left to the right The climb looks easier than it is. Last moves are very interesting. Sits directly to climbers left of the Your Mom’s Wet Hole

Third bolted line from the left to the right The climb has pre hung draws on chains which is a very nice touch. Lots of fun big moves, however the rock is still very sharp and will punish the

overly dynamic. The anchor is one ‘biner at the lip of the roof. Not some- thing regularly seen, but there’s no need to climb higher once it’s clipped.

The interesting moniker for the route followed from a crucial hold being very wet around the time of the FA, according to Graham Proulx.

Fourth bolted line moving left to right. Neat little stemming section to the first clip & easy climbing to the top.

Stem through a cool chimney to start, once through the chimney scram- ble up an easy thin low angle ramp along a good crack to the top. Hard

to call it 5.8, maybe 5.7.A little run out. ffa pat lynam

Fifth climb when moving from left to right along the cliff. Cool water formed geology. Fun climb, many options.

6th climb when moving from left to right along the cliff. Right of the cave you’ll see 3 bolts. Hardest part is seemingly before the 1st bolt. Very overhanging & bouldery! (Extension of the V9 Trans-Siberian Express)

Dirty Dream 5.10c 3 bolts FA: Adam Revit 11 metres Second bolted line from the left to the right The climb looks easier than it is. Last moves are very interesting. Sits directly to climbers left of the Your Mom’s Wet Hole

Crocodile Rock 5.10a 4 bolts FA: Adam Revit 11 metres Left most bolted line Interesting rock and fun moves. Utilize stemming while in crack at bottom of the climb. Potential ground fall between 2nd and 3rd bolt, a diligent belay helps. Good to be tall on

this climb! Lot’s of gear left behind on this climb since people don’t com- mit to the mantle. There’s holds there - look for ‘em.

Left most bolted line Interesting rock and fun moves. Utilize stemming while in crack at bottom of the climb. Potential ground fall between 2nd and 3rd bolt, a diligent belay helps.

is a sport route (can be done as a mixed/trad route)

a couple meters to the right of Abbey Road

Stiff moves on some small hold’s off the deck lead to easier climbing above, bring your stick clip! Forgetful Chirs joins The Happy Foot Doctor at its 3’d bolt.

Start on the right side of the tree and crack through crimps and slopers up to the horizontal seam, then break out left on trad gear to the crack that forms the upper bit of White Hot Matter.

When you hit the horizontal seam on The Happy Foot Doctor, continue straight up following the line of bolts. some balancey moves lead's to a large belay ledge.

Climb up the dihedral and follow the bolt line to the right. In 2020 a couple large flakes were removed lower down on the route changing the nature a bit.

First route to the left of the chimney. A fantastic route that has it all. Jugs, crimps, side pulls, and dynamic moves.

This line runs between Highway Robbery and Desperados. Climbs up four bolts to where it then links into the last bolt of the 13b Highway Robbery and finishes on shared anchor. Short and sweet power endurance crimp line. The hard moves are over when you arrive at the 4th bolt but don't blow clipping it!

Furthest route to the right. Powerful through the middle, run out at up high, but the climbing is easy.

First climb on climbers left on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade. After putting in the anchors and running out of battery power for the drill, Seanathon decided to still send the route sans bolts. (Free Solo)

This is the second route, climber's right of Going Solo, on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade.

Follow the black streak directly up and slightly left, staying left of bolt line. We should have named this one bolt ladder! A little miscommunication between myself and my bolting partner resulted in the abundance of bolts. A super great climb to learn to lead.

Retro bolted climb. Like the name says, there is one crux move at 5.10c. A fun route none the less.

Found out this route was originally called "The Bat 5.10d" FA by Julian Mclean. It only had one bolt and no anchors.

It is climbers right of The Bat and shares its anchors.

Props to Crystal for helping us clean this route and being the inspiration for the name of the climb.

This climb starts climbers right of Dirt Stamp 5.8. If you do not have a long reach, then the first crux starts right off the ground while getting to the right hand jug (right of the first bolt). The crux continues until you clip the second draw and get over the first bulge. You then follow the crack system top the top of the wall.

This climb starts climbers right of Dirty Looks Never Climbed So Clean 5.9+. The first crux starts right off the ground and continues until you clip the second draw and get over the first bulge. You then follow the line of bolts to top the top of the wall.

A really neat route that has big huecos on it from water runoff.

This route can be accessed by taking the right fork on the approach trail or from the Dirt Stamp Wall via the fixed line down to the Karate Kid Wall. Starts on black slabby rock, trend left to a bulge, then climb the thin crack up to the first set of anchors. Or climb past them and clip the Eight Litre Buckets’s anchors to get to the top of Dirt Stamp Wall.

Some nice jugs to start on almost vertical wall before a slab finish.

Starts on jugs to the right of Wax On. At the second bolt make a difficult move up and right, to the crack system under the overhang, clip the 3rd bolt and make some fun moves gets you through the overhang. You will now be on the ledge and about to start the technical crux before topping out.

This climb starts 2 metres climbers left of Stop Waxing Off Direct 5.11a. The first 3 bolts have sustained bouldery moves, and then it relaxes to the top. Has anchor rings.

This is located climbers left of Stop Waxing Off. It goes straight up through to the SWO anchors. Some tricky bouldery moves down low, lead to a moderate top.

Furthest climb to climber's right on Karate Kid Wall. Burly overhang start to slab finish. The top is no longer runout as we added a 5th bolt. 9/23/18

This climb is climber’s right of Stop Waxing Off. It starts on a big jug down and right of the first bolt and climbs left up a series of good holds until a tricky set of moves below the mini roof sets you up for a fun mantel. Finish directly above using the big flake or the crack system.

This climb is climber’s right of When the Sensei is Away the Boys Will Play 5.10b. Start this climb on the large jug and climb up and left or up and right past the first bolt. When you get to the large head wall near the top, try to go straight up and over for a real challenge.

This climb is climber’s right of K Squared Beer Patrol 5.10b. Start this climb on the large flake sidepull jug and climb up.

You access this climb from the big anchor ledge of Karate Kid Wall. It begins above and to the right of the anchors of Wax Off 5.11b. It is the first climb to get to the highest point of the Glen Lake Crags. It can be accessed as a second pitch from any of the Karate Kid Wall climbs.

Access this route from the anchors of Stop Waxing Off 5.10d. To make the FA’s fair, Seanathon wore Marcus’s climbing shoes. But he could only fit his feet in half way. So, he climbed the route for the FA using just the tips of his toes.

Access this route from the anchors of When the Sensei is Away, the Boys Will Play 5.10b. A tricky start leads to chill slab climbing. While doing one final brush before the FA’s Seanathon knocked a bunch of dirt in his eyes and climbed this route with 1 eye closed.

Access this route from the Karate Kid Ledge. It is to the right of One Eyed Raven 5.8 A really neat undercling start, leads to juggy slab climbing. It ends a couple metres before the top of the crag at a flat vertical wall. Or you can finish on One Eyed Raven 5.8 by ignoring the anchors and clipping the last 2 bolts of O.E.R.

Old rusty bolts and anchors. Looks unsafe and will need a retro bolt.

Traverse in from the trail to get to the start of this line. Some nice jug climbing gets you up to a small, beautiful crack that we wished went from the bottom of the route to the top. It is the first line bolted on this wall.

• The furthest most line on the right-hand side of the wall. Start on the large V rails and make your way up a series of big rails to the top.

Easier going left at the bulge. Graded 5.11+ in the guidebook.

This climb is a bit of an eliminate. To keep the 10b grade climb directly up the face without using the arete or making your way to left ledge out to the left and mantel the first boulder. Then continue to the top.

Fun route! A few slightly desperate spots with tiny holds, but it's all there. The cracks are really satisfying when you get them!

Recently retro bolted (2020) with new gluein hardware, Easy climbing to the 3'd bolt, then Wham Bam crux moves!

an easy first lead

Sport mixed

climb the face of the large flake