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Buffalo Crag Mostly Trad climbing 92 routes in crag

92
YDS
5.05.25.45.65.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c

Seasonality

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Description

Routes are ordered from climbers left to right (west to east). At the bottom of the cliff there are numbers (faintly) painted every 10m with dots located at 5m. Many of these are now hard to see or were painted on rock which has now fallen off.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Approach

Located at the Rattlesnake Point Conservation area. From the lower parking lot take the trail towards the cliff turn right to head west. Alternatively, take the Buffalo Crag Trail which heads directly west from the south end of the parking lot. Hike either trail for about 20 minutes until you reach a look-out point with benches and signs. Just past this area is the 'Easy Way Down'.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.6 ★ Which Way Now Trad

Starts at number 0.

2
5.7 ★★ End Game Trad

Start at 3m.

3
5.9 ★ Sunsplash Trad
4
5.8 ★★★ Flying Kiwi Trad

Start at 10m.

5
5.8 The Prow Trad

Start at 11m.

6
5.10b Georger Pecans Trad

Start at 13m.

7
5.11a Hyper Extension Trad

Start at 15m.

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8
5.8 ★★ Thin Series Trad

Start at 15m.

9
5.6 ★ Green Thumb Trad

Start at 17m

10
5.6 ★ Unknown Trad 23m

Start at 30m.

11
5.3 ★★ Autumn Finale Trad

Start at 33m.

12
5.3 ★ Jetsam Trad 23m

Start at 37m. Climb up up the open book.

13
5.8 But...It Was Only a Tree Trad

Start at 39m.

14
5.8 Fear or Flying Trad

Start at 41m.

15
5.5 British Faggots Trad

Start at 41m.

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16
5.5 ★★ Piece of Duff Trad

Start at 44m. Climb up the obvious crack to a fixed nut under a small roof. Move left out from under the roof and continue up on easier terrain.

17
5.0 ★ Staircase Trad
18
5.9 ★★ Baby Face Trad
19
5.11a Crank if You Love Jesus Trad
20
5.9 ★★ Girdle Traverse Trad

A long face traverse which starts on the belay ledge of 'Baby Face' and finishes on 'Sunshine'. Hanging belay on 'Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands', belay ledge on 'Boa Constrictor' and on 'Abyss'.

21
5.8 ★★ Flying Squirrel Trad

Start at 73m.

22
5.9 The Field Marshal's Hangover Trad

Start at 78m.

23
5.7 ★★ Goldmund Trad

Start at 80m.

24
5.8 Marzipan Trad
25
5.6 Narcis Trad

Start at 80m.

26
5.8 Jungle Vines Trad

Start at 84m.

27
5.9 Pain Ingot Trad

Starts at 88m

28
5.10 ★ Serration Trad

The location of this route is unclear from the guidebooks. Probably starts around 92m and follows some lieback flakes up to a roof, then moves right and up from there to the right of the tree.

29
5.10d ★★ Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands Trad

Starts at 95m

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30
5.9 ★★ Rainy Day Woman Trad 22m

Starts at 98m. Climbs the obvious cracks through two roofs, heading up and left. Very fun and very sustained.

31
5.10c Phenothiazine Trad

Starts at 100m.

32
5.11c Lycra Test Trad
33
5.11c ★ Know Your Rights Mixed trad 1

Start in the corner under the large roof with a bolt on the right and piton on the left. Move up and right, crank the roof past the bolt on good (but hard to see) holds. Continue straight up on easy terrain, following 'Knight's Move' to the top.

34
5.10d Summer Brave / Some are Brave Trad

Starts at 105m.

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35
5.10b ★ Orange Wall Direct Trad 22m

Start at 106m. Direct start to Orange wall, staying left of the 2nd bolt. Either connect up with Orange wall (5.10B) or stay left towards the giant boulder (that looks like it'll fall off) to finish up Summer Brave (5.10C)

36
5.9 ★★ Orange Wall Trad 22m

Starts at 110m. Start 6m right of the direct start. Follow the two bols that are veering left and then aim straight up after the second bolt. Fantastic climbing.

37
5.7 ★ Knight's Move Trad

Starts at 110m. Heads up about 5m, then moves well left to a left-facing corner above a large roof and continues to the top.

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38
5.7 ★ Skywalker Trad

Start at 110m.

39
5.9 Nervous System Trad

Start at 112m.

40
5.4 ★★ Boa Constrictor Trad

Starts at 113m. Climbs the obvious offwidth/chimney, then head right to the top. One of the very few offwidth/chimney climbs on the Escarpment.

41
5.8 Reject Direct Trad

Start at 116m.

42
5.2 ★ Veg Trad
43
5.8 ★ Veg Direct Trad

Start at 116m.

44
5.3 Shakey Flakey Trad

Start to the right of Veg Direct.

45
5.10b ★ Operation Evaporation Trad

Start at 125m

46
5.11 The Go-Between Top rope
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47
5.10b ★★ Abyss Trad 22m

Start at 131m. Strenuous start off the poor-landing boulders, following the layback cracks and small roofs to the dark corner of the big roof. Make your way around the big rock for a slabby finish on grippy rock.

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48
5.9 ★ Hydroseal Trad
49
5.7 ★★ Sunshine Trad 25m

Start at 138m.

50
5.4 Durley's Return Trad

Start at 142m.

51
5.7 ★ Bob's Your Uncle Trad

Start at 145m.

52
5.2 The Coke Trad 20m

Start at 145m. Climb up to the right.

53
5.4 Apple Crumble Trad
54
Class 4 Easy Way Down Trad

The easy descent located just west of the Buffalo Crag lookout.

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55
5.2 Warm Up Trad 12m

Start at 172m, Perpendicular to main cliff face. Good holds and minimal exposure.

56
5.8 Simian Swing Trad

Start at 175m.

57
5.6 U of T Special Trad

Start at 177m.

58
5.4 Trillium Trad

Start at 178m.

59
5.4 Tree Jam Trad

Start at 182m.

60
5.3 Mayflower Trad

Start at 188m.

61
5.1 Turkey Trad

Start at 213m.

62
5.9 Fancisco's Memorial Traverse Trad 3
63
5.4 ★★ Calhoun Trad

Start at 200m.

64
5.10c ★ Brain Salad Surgery Trad

Start at 205m.

65
5.9 ★ Smartsinutab Trad

Start at 206m.

66
5.7 The Sting Trad

Start at 208m.

67
5.8 Reunion Trad

Start at 210m.

68
5.6 The Dodger Trad
69
5.9 The Shield Trad

Start at 215m.

70
5.8 Silly Face Trad

Start at 217m.

71
5.6 ★★ Super Duper Trad
72
5.8 Super Dave's Last Stunt Trad

Start at 222m.

73
5.5 ★★ Reservoir Trad
74
5.6 Ragusa Trad

Start at 229m.

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75
5.4 ★★ Yoyo Trad
76
5.6 ★ Sperber Trad

Start at 237m.

77
5.6 Orc Trad
78
5.9 Nivek Trad
79
5.9 Sandman Trad

Start at 247m.

80
5.8 Dune Trad
81
5.6 Cedar Trad

Start at 252m.

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82
5.9 ★★ Tapestry Trad 13m

Start at 257m. Up the glossy holds towards the crack. Follow the crack to the chimney behind the huge flake. Make your way up the chimney and follow the crack to the top.

83
5.10c ★ Angel Drawers Direct Top rope 13m

Start at the "5" painted on the rock. Avoids both "Tapestry" and "Angel Drawers" up to the final crack.

Direct up on big boulders and up the muddy dark crack, followed by a transition to the crack just right of "Tapestry" at the roof. Big moves up two ledges to finish up the "Angel Drawers" final crack.

Pretty fun and a bit harder than "Angel Drawers. Probably has been climbed before, and may have a different name, but it's not in the guide book. Top roped so unsure about trad/gear placement.

84
5.10b ★ Angel Drawers Trad 13m

Start at 260m. Follow the crack on black rock along the dihedral and up around the the right of the roof to avoid it, then once over the roof, make your way back left towards the obvious crack to the top.

85
5.5 ★ Pickle Puss Trad
86
5.4 Ramble Trad
87
5.5 Second Time Lucky Trad

Start at 267m.

88
5.7 Desperation Mantle Trad

Start at 270m.

89
5.9 Desperation Exit Trad

Start at 273m.

90
5.10b Stony End Trad
91
5.6 Chili and Double Toast Trad

Start at 275m.

92
5.4 Brown Pop Trad

Start at 277m.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Ontario Climbing: Volume 2 The Northern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

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ⓘ
Ontario Climbing: Vol 1 The Southern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Buy
ⓘ

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★ Staircase 5.0 - Route landmark

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