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Buffalo Crag

Seasonality

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Description

Routes are ordered from climbers left to right (west to east). At the bottom of the cliff there are numbers (faintly) painted every 10m with dots located at 5m. Many of these are now hard to see or were painted on rock which has now fallen off.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Approach

Located at the Rattlesnake Point Conservation area. From the lower parking lot take the trail towards the cliff turn right to head west. Alternatively, take the Buffalo Crag Trail which heads directly west from the south end of the parking lot. Hike either trail for about 20 minutes until you reach a look-out point with benches and signs. Just past this area is the 'Easy Way Down'.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Starts at number 0.

Start at 3m.

Start at 10m.

Start at 11m.

Start at 13m.

Start at 15m.

Start at 15m.

Start at 17m

Start at 30m.

Start at 33m.

Start at 37m. Climb up up the open book.

Start at 39m.

Start at 41m.

Start at 41m.

Start at 44m. Climb up the obvious crack to a fixed nut under a small roof. Move left out from under the roof and continue up on easier terrain.

A long face traverse which starts on the belay ledge of 'Baby Face' and finishes on 'Sunshine'. Hanging belay on 'Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands', belay ledge on 'Boa Constrictor' and on 'Abyss'.

Start at 73m.

Start at 78m.

Start at 80m.

Start at 80m.

Start at 84m.

Starts at 88m

The location of this route is unclear from the guidebooks. Probably starts around 92m and follows some lieback flakes up to a roof, then moves right and up from there to the right of the tree.

Starts at 95m

Starts at 98m. Climbs the obvious cracks through two roofs, heading up and left. Very fun and very sustained.

Starts at 100m.

Start in the corner under the large roof with a bolt on the right and piton on the left. Move up and right, crank the roof past the bolt on good (but hard to see) holds. Continue straight up on easy terrain, following 'Knight's Move' to the top.

Starts at 105m.

Start at 106m. Direct start to Orange wall, staying left of the 2nd bolt. Either connect up with Orange wall (5.10B) or stay left towards the giant boulder (that looks like it'll fall off) to finish up Summer Brave (5.10C)

Starts at 110m. Start 6m right of the direct start. Follow the two bols that are veering left and then aim straight up after the second bolt. Fantastic climbing.

Starts at 110m. Heads up about 5m, then moves well left to a left-facing corner above a large roof and continues to the top.

Start at 110m.

Start at 112m.

Starts at 113m. Climbs the obvious offwidth/chimney, then head right to the top. One of the very few offwidth/chimney climbs on the Escarpment.

Start at 116m.

Start at 116m.

Start to the right of Veg Direct.

Start at 125m

Start at 131m. Strenuous start off the poor-landing boulders, following the layback cracks and small roofs to the dark corner of the big roof. Make your way around the big rock for a slabby finish on grippy rock.

Start at 138m.

Start at 142m.

Start at 145m.

Start at 145m. Climb up to the right.

The easy descent located just west of the Buffalo Crag lookout.

Start at 172m, Perpendicular to main cliff face. Good holds and minimal exposure.

Start at 175m.

Start at 177m.

Start at 178m.

Start at 182m.

Start at 188m.

Start at 213m.

Start at 200m.

Start at 205m.

Start at 206m.

Start at 208m.

Start at 210m.

Start at 215m.

Start at 217m.

Start at 222m.

Start at 229m.

Start at 237m.

Start at 247m.

Start at 252m.

Start at 257m. Up the glossy holds towards the crack. Follow the crack to the chimney behind the huge flake. Make your way up the chimney and follow the crack to the top.

Start at the "5" painted on the rock. Avoids both "Tapestry" and "Angel Drawers" up to the final crack.

Direct up on big boulders and up the muddy dark crack, followed by a transition to the crack just right of "Tapestry" at the roof. Big moves up two ledges to finish up the "Angel Drawers" final crack.

Pretty fun and a bit harder than "Angel Drawers. Probably has been climbed before, and may have a different name, but it's not in the guide book. Top roped so unsure about trad/gear placement.

Start at 260m. Follow the crack on black rock along the dihedral and up around the the right of the roof to avoid it, then once over the roof, make your way back left towards the obvious crack to the top.

Start at 267m.

Start at 270m.

Start at 273m.

Start at 275m.

Start at 277m.

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