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description

The free version of an old aid route on the east face. The mega ledge to ledge link of the three crack pitches has got to be one of the most inspiring crack projects anywhere! Will Stanhope promises beers for that FA.

The hard pitches:

  1. Drunken Dawn Wall Pitch, a.k.a. the Face Pitch (5.14)

  2. Blood on the Crack (5.14-)

  3. The WooWoo (5.13)

  4. Ivokanee (5.13- R)

Route history

Aug 2015First ascent: Will Stanhope

Will Stanhope and Matt Segal have freed the 1978 aid line Tom Egan Memorial Route on the east face of Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, British Columbia. They climbed the 13-pitch route in a single, four-day push, from August 11 to 14.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 50.73676, -116.78180

Grade citation

5.14b Assigned grade

Quality

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

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Mon 24 Apr
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