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Description

Climbs around the "2nd Easy Way Down".

Mostly moderates, a mixture of older climbs that maintained their popularity and new climbs. Most climbs have bolted anchors.

Being close to "2nd Easy Way Down", means that there is generally easy top-of-cliff access for setting top-ropes on climbs in this sector.

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

The approach to Lake Cliff appears to cross private land, and the cliff may be on private land as well.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

Approach

Either take the upper approach, and scramble down "2nd Easy Way Down" (possibly after setting top-ropes), or approach along the bottom, taking the first or 2nd left branches up towards the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at a point 30m right of the First Easy Way Down and 10m left of the point at which the trail climbs up around a large boulder. A solitary cedar 1/2 way up the cliff distinguishes the route. Starting above a juniper bush, pull directly over a small overhang, traverse slightly left to a large ledge, move diagonally up and right to the cedar, then finish straight to the top.

FA: D Buck & A Kerr-Wilson, 1985

Climb up the obvious line through the big overhang left of "The Next Generation" and continue up the face above. Usually wet.

Climb up the face to the left of Real Men, keeping 1 to 2 metres right of the blunt arete.

About 60 meters left of pull up at the base of the cliff where the large boulders are. Climb up some easy slab to the first bolt, bolt line then follows a black mineral stain up the wall.

"Prime Time" is a re-bolted version of "The Next Generation".

From the old guide, "Three bolts were placed before the first ascent. These were all removed by Steve Adcock in November, 1989." These old bolt-holes are clearly visible as one climbs.

Set by James H & Dean Urness

FA: S Adamson & C Macknie, 1989

Start directly beneath the left end of a large spectacular roof. This roof can be distinguished by the way it gains height in steps, from right to left. Climb straight up the steep slab to the base of the roof and traverse slightly left. Climb straight out to the outer ledge of the roof using an obvious finger crack (excellent protection if you have the strength to hang around and place it). Once past the roof, move slightly right and then up, past two pitons.

"5.9 if you're a real man; 5.10 if you've got some brains."

FA: S Adcock & J Prokopiak, 1984

A few meters left of "Pull Up" is a slab of rock dyed black from water running down. In the spring this is covered in ice, and there are ice climbs on this section in the winter.

Climb up, staying to the left out of the dihedral, over the bulges on thin holds, to a solid cedar at the top.

Climb the dihedral, veering left up features just below the cedar (anchor).

Start as for "Black Book", but move onto the right face of the dihedral and climb staying completely on the face, using the arrete for hands, to the top, and then traverse to finish below the cedar.

About 20m left of "Cosmic Teacup" and "Pull Up". Climbs a left-facing wall between a lower roof to the right, and higher diamond-shaped roof to the left.

This is a great line not very sustained. Good climb to learn to place pro.

Set by Jp, 13 Jun 2015

FFA: Jp, 13 Jun 2015

FA: Jp, 13 Jun 2015

Climb the bolt line up the face left of "Pull Up".

A bit run-out from the last bolt to the anchors - a small gear placement might add confidence.

FFA: Jp, 11 Jun 2015

FA: Jp, 11 Jun 2015

Set by Jp & Mike Sims, 11 Jun 2015

From 'Flaky Flake', walk left along the cliff face, up and over a pile of scree then down again. There will be a slab with a wide zig-zagging crack going up to a ledge about 3m off the ground, with a small overhang about 1.5m above the ledge and a first bolt just above the overhang. Crux is pulling over the overhang. Then nice climbing up past 3 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

(No idea who bolted this, or first climbed it, so called it Pull Up.)

An obvious slab a few meter left of The Fly. Up a crack then diagonally left up the slab to the top.

So named because of the many pins (none of them good) used to protect the FA. The route has since been repeated without using any pins. It is poorly protected.

FA: R Halka & H Norris, 1986

Start left of 'Flaky Flake'. Climb up onto a slab, then climb the obvious crack. (Harder than it looks.) Join Flaky Flake or finish left of that route.

FA: R Halka & S Adcock, 1986

Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors.

FA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975

Climb the slab just to the right of Flaky Flake, passing to the right of the dead tree 2/3 way up. 2 bolts for anchors at top.

"Seconds Out" finishes on a rising right traverse -- if you take this line of weakness and trace it leftwards past where "Seconds Out" joins it at a pair of cedar trees all the way to flaky flake, it looks like an interesting line.

Climb the slab right of Flaky Flake until you reach the horizontal weakness, traverse right towards the pair of cedar trees, then finish as per "Seconds Out" -- a rising right traverse until there is an obvious break in the top of the cliff.

There's a set of anchors about 3m right of the '(Slab Right of Flaky Flake)', climb directly up from below these anchors -- starting about 3m right of 'Flaky Flake'.

Start just left of Seconds Out and head up angling leftwards towards a small overhang (with a bolt). Finish on a 2-bolt anchor.

Start 5m left of 2nd Easy Way Down, climb up 3m on good holds (shared with Seconds OUt) then pull straight over the small overhang and bulges above it. About 2m above the cedar tree (on the left), follow the thin crack up to the anchors at the top.

The upper face section gets quite thin, and is a committing lead for a 5.8.

FA: J Prokopiak, R Halka & J Cotter, 1984

Start 5m left of 2nd Easy Way Down. Climb up 3m on good holds, then traverse left to avoid a small overhang. Climb up to an obvious tree, then doing a rising rightwards traverse on various ledges, to exit through an obvious crack at the top of the cliff.

FA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975

Shares the start for Seconds Out, look for a bolt on a fairly blank looking upper part of the face, right of the crack that Cool But Concerned climbs up. Climb up the initial dihedral then up and right (awkward) onto the ledge, then straight up to and past the bolt to anchors.

Starting just at the base of the ramp for 2nd Easy Way down, climb over the gentle bulges to a pair of bolted anchors.

This goes up the prominent corner just to the right of where the main lower trail comes up the talus slope to join the trail along the base of the cliff. From the top, this is just past the 2nd overlook, the 2nd place where the main trail along the top of the cliff comes out to the cliff top itself.

It is an easy slab section with a couple cedar trees on it, going to a short (about 3m) vertical section with big solid holds. At times, it is protected by a fixed rope.

Start 5m to the right of the "2nd Easy Way Down".

FA: M Buck & D Buck, 1984

Start at a short left-facing dihedral with an obvious foot-jam crack. Climb 4m up the dihedral, traverse right along a sloping crack, then finish.

Start at the widest part of a low (1.5-2m high) overhang at the base of the cliff. A 1m wide slight bulge, in black (water discoloured) rock, marks the start of the route. The crux is getting on the rock. After getting on the rock, easy climbing (though with little protection) up and slightly left leads to an obvious break in the overhang at the top of the cliff.

Belay/anchor off the big pine tree at the top. (Often has slings on it, as this section generally has a good ice climb on it in the winter.)

Awkward to protect, and crux unprotectable (except by bouldering/spotting techniques) means this lends itself well to a top-rope climb.

FA: R Halka & T Jones, 1985

Activity

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