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Star Trek Sector

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Description

Climbs, both old and new, from moderate to hard, around a group of old climbs named with a Star Trek theme.

This sector includes

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Lake Cliff is on crown land however the property line (Land owned by Calabogie Peaks Resort) runs along the north west end of the cliff. The land north east of the cliff is owned by the Greater Madawaska Township. The Township has given permission to establish and maintain the trail network found here that crosses township land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

Approach

Either take the upper approach, and scramble down "2nd Easy Way Down" (possibly after setting top-ropes), or approach along the bottom, taking the the 3rd or later branches up towards the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

To the right of Grunt, the trail goes up a small slope. Start where the trail first levels off, directly beneath a large Spruce tree at the top of the cliff.

1m left of Breakfast Cookie. Climb up and slightly left to a large V-shaped notch in the overhang. Continue through the notch to the spruce tree.

No bolted anchor, walk off or use the tree to rappel.

FA: M Buck & P Alleyn, 1984

A bit to the left of "Phasers on Stun" are a couple new bolted lines, this is the one on the left. It goes up easy climbing to the first bolt, then winds its way through a series of roofs/bulges to anchors on the right side of a prow at the top of the cliff.

Currently (summer 2012) there is a small rock at the bottom with the name (Breakfast Cookie) and a grade (5.10b) on it at the bottom.

FA: Lenke Burke, 2012

Between "Breakfast Cookie" and "Tipytoe" are a couple bolts, after the 2nd one the route heads up through a fairly substantial roof on gear.

Start below a bolt just left of Phasers on Stun. Climb up through the small roof bulge to the shared anchor with Phasers. Harder at the bottom, to easier climbing at the top. 2 bolts and 3 cams.

Start directly behind a cedar tree at the base of the cliff. There is a distinctive curving crack around a bulge 7m up the face. Climb straight up to this crack, continue up to a small roof, then traverse left 2m under the roof. Either continue traversing left to an easy exit, or climb straight up through the a notch in the roof ( a bit harder, maybe 5.6). Anchors.

FA: L Yanosik & R Halka, 1975

Start up the rounded arete between Stun and Kill where there are two bolts. Make a few thin moves and a desperate throw into a bad thumbdercling and finish with Phasers on Kill.

Start 4m right of Phasers on Stun. Climb up a crack, move left and up to the base of a small overhang. Avoid this by stepping right and moving up a tricky dihedral to the top.

Apparently rock fall has made the upper section harder than it was when it was first climbed. Anchors.

FA: S Adcock & M Buck, 1984

Opposite from Phasors on Kill. Start on left arete. Head right to decent edge on overhanging face. Head up on good edges and slopers.

Just to the right of Phasers on Kill, climb up the series of bulges. 4 bolts and 3 cams.

FA: 2011

A rather airy route, providing sustained difficulties. Start just to the right of Phases on Kill at a short round-nosed arete. Climb up the arete to the base of a prominent dihedral (about 4m). Continue up the dihedral to a small triangular roof. Step left and move up to a large roof. At the back of the roof, use a finger crack to traverse 6m to the right, then exit straight up. Stepping up into the base of the dihedral is the crux, and it is poorly protected. Otherwise the route has excellent protection. (Friends 3 #1s, 2 #1.5s, 2 #2s.)

Bolt line right of "Beam Me Up Scotty". Possibly a project?

Shares first two bolts with "Dolcezza Bikini" then moves left.

Starts to the left of Vulcan Mind

First bolt has a green tag on it but that is for the bolts that go left.

FA: Jonathan Dean Urness, 2016

Shares the first few moves with Vulcan Mind, but instead of traversing right, continues directly up the face above.

(closed project as of fall 2012)

Start about 4m right of 'Beam Me Up Scotty', in the center of the overhanging wall. Climb up a flake and make a long reach up to a horizontal crack. Reach up right to another thin horizontal crack, and traverse out right almost to the arete. Step up into a thin crack, then out right around the arete and mantleshelf onto a good ledge (first rest). Step left and finish up a short notch.

With the 2011 retro-bolting, this probably no longer warrants the (historical) R rating, so removed.

At the second bolt climb right into Lobotomy.

FA: Jonathan Dean Urness, 2016

Starts a meter or so left of the obvious arete that is "Vulcan Mind direct", up the obvious left/undercling feature.

Stick-clip suggested for first bolt.

FA: Mike Burke, 2012

Climb the overhanging arete (3 bolts) at the right end of the section below the large roof, then finish on 'Vulcan Mind'.

FA: Ken Flagg, 2011

Just around the arete of 'Vulcan Mind' direct is a series of 4 bolted routes. This is the first of them, going up some overhanging terrain. Needs a few cams or tricams (red, brown, optional black).

Bolt route to the right of "I'm a Doctor, Not a Climber", climb the up past the left edge of the low roof though a slight notch, then up easier ground to anchors.

Run-out from last bolt to anchors, but easy ground or protectable with gear.

A direct variation to First Flight.

Pull directly over the notch rather than going right, then left to avoid the lower roof.

Run-out (ground fall possible) between 1st and 2nd bolt. Optional gear to protect.

Around the corner from the Star Trek sector is a mostly less-than-vertical wall with a couple low staggered roofs, with the left one being lower than the right. Start below a notch in the lower roof. Climb up and right bypassing the lower roof to the right, then traverse back left below the upper roof and pass it to the left, then up easier ground to anchors.

Run-out (ground fall possible) between 1st and 2nd bolt. Optional gear to protect.

Start 3m right of 'First Flight', underneath a small overhang 5m above the ground. Climb up and to the right on small holds, bypassing the overhang on its right side. Continue more or less straight to the top.

There is one bolt below the bulge and a 2nd bolt just over the lip of the bulge. The route has 3 bolts, takes some gear as well, and finishes with bolted anchors.

Start 2m right of "Calabogie Sunset". Climb straight up to an overhang with a small cedar on its lip. Climb straight through the overhang, past the cedar, to the top.

A quick route with a fun little hand traverse.

Stand at the first dihedral to the right of "Calabogie Sunset". On the left face, use big holds to climb up and slightly left for 6m. Do a short hand traverse to the right, using a horizontal finger crack. Follow a steep gully up to a large roof, and exit to the left underneath the roof.

Start just to the right of "Buck's First FA". Climb up and right on loose blocks for 6m, then continue up an obvious line to a large red pine tree.

If you continue along the cliff past the "Calabogie Sunset" face, you will come to another large roof near the top of the cliff.

This climb goes up a set of bolts near the left edge of the roof to anchors at the top.

FA: Matt Zavitz, 2012

Start up the bolts at the left end of the roof, then follow the bolts along the roof to exit out the right side.

FA: Matt Zavitz

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