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Description

The tail end of the climbs that are generally approached along the base of the cliff. This section has a nice collection of sub-5.10 sport climbs.

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

The approach to Lake Cliff appears to cross private land, and the cliff may be on private land as well.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

Approach

Approach as per Star Trek Sector, but continue south (climber's right) along the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

Now (spring 2017) cleaned & bolted as a sport route, with a label stone as "Too Many Puppies 5.8S" - was graded 5.4 in the 80s as a trad route.

Start 5m to the right of a small cairn (yeah, right, like it's still there) and at the base of a steep slab facing right, 75m past the start of "First Flight". A short face leads to the base of the slab. Follow the slab to the top, generally keeping to its left edge, bypassing a cedar. The crux move involves stepping left onto a bulge (6m above the base of the slab) while using a horizontal break for a hand jam.

FA: M Buck & J Hayding, 1984

Climbs over the same roof as Desert Trip to its right, with more consistent but easier climbing.

Climb a short face to a short slab to a bulge. Pull the bulge/roof to a ledge to the right. Then up and left over another bulge, then right to the anchors.

FA: 2016

Climb easily to a high first bolt, then follow the glue-ins past a couple small roofs using a sharp arete.

Name-stone at base.

Start 10m right of "Fogged Up", at the base of a broken corner, 1m left of "Moje Zlato". There is a pine tree 8m up the cliff, 3m left of the corner. Climb the corner.

FA: Steve Adamson & Steve Adcock - 1988

There are a pair of bolted lines up a left-facing wall, this is the left-most of the two of them.

This goes at about 5.9 if you stay on the face the bolts are on, but somewhat easier if you move into the corner to the left. Probably about 5.7 if climbed to the left.

FA: 2011

The bolt line right of "Moje Zlato", climb the face and over the small roof.

Finish is a bit run-out, but can be protected with an (optional) piece in the horizontal finger crack.

Anchor is in a big detached block.

FA: Ken Flagg & Petra Slivka, 2011

Starts a couple meters right of Hakuna-Matata.

Start up a blocky corner with big holds. After clipping the first bolt, step left onto a right-facing slab. At the top of the slab, climb a steeper face on good holds, them move right to the anchor.

Good climbing throughout.

About 100m right of Calabogie Sunset you will come around a bit of a corner to an easy-angled face with a couple bolt lines up it.

This now (fall, 2012) has a plaque at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Left 5.9 M".

This is the left-most of the two bolt lines. The first bolt is a bit high, so a placement before this bolt could help, though the climbing is also fairly easy. Also, it is bolted with the intention that a cam be placed between bolts 3 and 4 in the finger-sized horizontal crack.

If comfortable at the grade, can be climbed sport if desired, but a bit run out between the 3rd and 4th bolts (where a bolt was cut because of the readily available gear placement).

The right set of bolts up this face. If climbed directly over the bolts, goes about 5.7 -- but can be climbed at about 5.5 by drifting a bit off line either right or left into larger holds.

This now (fall 2012) has a chunk of rock at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Right 5.8 S".

Climb the open easy-angled face up a crack (just to the right of the bolts) to a small right-facing corner.

Protection is scarce and poor for the first 2/3 of the climb, but easy to find at the top.

FA: S Adcock & S Adamson - 1988

Easy sport climb on the slab a couple meters right of stage right.

Has a sign posted naming it and giving a grade of 5.8 -- but this climb is no harder than 5.5. (It is considerably easier than Phasers on Stun - 5.5.)

Follow the grassy area up and to the right of 'Shanti'. Often used as a top out to take the upper trail back to the road.

About 20m past Shanti, glue-in bolts up a slab with a small tree at the base.

Plaque labelling it as "Aint No Wifey 5.8 S", but grade is no harder than 5.6.

FA: Petra Slivka, 2016

1 5.5
2 5.8

A few meters right of "Ain't no wifey", another line of glue-in bolts run up the cliff.

Plaque labelling as "Cheat Stick 5.8 S" at the base, but climb is no harder than 5.7.

FA: Ken Flagg, 2016

FA: Ken Flagg, 2016

Climbs up a short bit of slab to a vertical wall with green streaks and bolts. Up the face to a right facing corner/chimney right of a high roof, then finishes a bit left.

Start at the obvious dihedral to the left of "Square Notch". By bridging, climb up to the top of the dihedral, then follow an obvious crack straight up to the top.

Situated 50m past the third easy way down. Look for a distinctive, 70cm wide square gap or notch in the overhang at the top of the cliff.

Follow a thin crack up a 4m face to the left end of a steep slab. Climb up the slab and continue up the overhanging dihedral to the exit at the notch.

Climb the dihedral/crack system to the roof. Follow the crack though the roof and up.

Immediately right of "Square Notch" there is a big roof near the top of the cliff. Start to the right of where the roof ends.

Climb the wall easily up to a short chimney with a deep wide crack at its back. Climb the chimney to the top.

Start directly behind a large pine tree 7m to the left of a cairn (again, yeah, right).

Step up 1m onto a narrow slab. At the right end of this slab, step up onto another slab and follow it right 5m to a vegetated ledge. From this ledge, climb straight up over several large loose stacked blocks (the Scary Monsters). Exit to the left.

Start as for "Halloween". Follow Halloween for about 10m, then climb straight up an obvious overhanging V-corner. Step left at the top of the corner and climb diagonally left to the top.

The route was known for a while as Sleazy Route Grabbing Scumbags, to mark the fine behaviour of the first ascensionists.

Start behind a large pine tree 12m to the right of a cairn (yup, another cairn).

Step up onto the base of a narrow slab leading up to the right. Follow this slab to the right until past the overlying overhang (about 25m). Climb up and slightly right to the base of an arete. Continue to the top via a wide crack on the right side of the arete.

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