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Mid-cliff Sector

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Description

The tail end of the climbs that are generally approached along the base of the cliff. This section has a nice collection of sub-5.10 sport climbs.

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. If you make a fire, keep it small and in a pit. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Lake Cliff is on crown land however the property line (Land owned by Calabogie Peaks Resort) runs along the north west end of the cliff. The land north east of the cliff is owned by the Greater Madawaska Township. The Township has given permission to establish and maintain the trail network found here that crosses township land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

Approach

Approach as per Star Trek Sector, but continue south (climber's right) along the cliff.

Alternatively stay on the lower trail though the scattered boulders and swamp. Trail rises out of the swamp and past two large boulders ("Malamute") and starts to fade as it approaches a large talus field. Turn left and head up the short slope to the cliff line. This is the far end of this sector, turn left along the cliff and you will shortly encounter "Bolts are for Kids" and "The Hulk".

Routes

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Grade Route

Now (spring 2017) cleaned & bolted as a sport route, with a label stone as "Too Many Puppies 5.8S" - was graded 5.4 in the 80s as a trad route.

Start 5m to the right of a small cairn (yeah, right, like it's still there) and at the base of a steep slab facing right, 75m past the start of "First Flight". A short face leads to the base of the slab. Follow the slab to the top, generally keeping to its left edge, bypassing a cedar. The crux move involves stepping left onto a bulge (6m above the base of the slab) while using a horizontal break for a hand jam.

FA: M Buck & J Hayding, 1984

Climbs over the same roof as Desert Trip to its right, with more consistent but easier climbing.

Climb a short face to a short slab to a bulge. Pull the bulge/roof to a ledge to the right. Then up and left over another bulge, then right to the anchors.

FA: 2016

Climb easily to a high first bolt, then follow the glue-ins past a couple small roofs using a sharp arete.

Name-stone at base.

Start 10m right of "Fogged Up", at the base of a broken corner, 1m left of "Moje Zlato". There is a pine tree 8m up the cliff, 3m left of the corner. Climb the corner.

FA: Steve Adamson & Steve Adcock - 1988

There are a pair of bolted lines up a left-facing wall, this is the left-most of the two of them.

This goes at about 5.9 if you stay on the face the bolts are on, but somewhat easier if you move into the corner to the left. Probably about 5.7 if climbed to the left.

FA: 2011

The bolt line right of "Moje Zlato", climb the face and over the small roof.

Finish is a bit run-out, but can be protected with an (optional) piece in the horizontal finger crack.

Anchor is in a big detached block.

FA: Ken Flagg & Petra Slivka, 2011

Starts a couple meters right of Hakuna-Matata. Crux is low, stick clip 1st or 2nd bolt highly advised.

Start just left of Karma Points under the small roof. Head up to jug rail and pull directly though the roof onto the slab and up the slab. Finish on Karma Points at end of slab. Dihedral on right is completely out. Contrived eliminate. Has 2-3 great moves though the roof. Jug under roof on left is tempting, loose and not required as pinching the corner above is enough.

Shares Karma Points bolts. Suggest pre-cliping second bolt to avoid potentially serious swing.

FFA: Jim Clark, 24 Sep 2018

Start up a blocky corner with big holds. After clipping the first bolt, step left onto a right-facing slab. At the top of the slab, climb a steeper face on good holds, them move right to the anchor.

Good climbing throughout.

About 100m right of Calabogie Sunset you will come around a bit of a corner to an easy-angled face with a couple bolt lines up it.

This now (fall, 2012) has a plaque at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Left 5.9 M".

This is the left-most of the two bolt lines. The first bolt is a bit high, so a placement before this bolt could help, though the climbing is also fairly easy. Also, it is bolted with the intention that a cam be placed between bolts 3 and 4 in the finger-sized horizontal crack.

If comfortable at the grade, can be climbed sport if desired, but a bit run out between the 3rd and 4th bolts (where a bolt was cut because of the readily available gear placement).

The right set of bolts up this face. If climbed directly over the bolts, goes about 5.7 -- but can be climbed at about 5.5 by drifting a bit off line either right or left into larger holds.

This now (fall 2012) has a chunk of rock at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Right 5.8 S".

Climb the open easy-angled face up a crack (just to the right of the bolts) to a small right-facing corner.

Protection is scarce and poor for the first 2/3 of the climb, but easy to find at the top.

FA: S Adcock & S Adamson - 1988

Easy sport climb on the slab a couple meters right of stage right.

Has a sign posted naming it and giving a grade of 5.8 -- but this climb is no harder than 5.5. (It is considerably easier than Phasers on Stun - 5.5.)

Follow the grassy area up and to the right of 'Shanti'. Often used as a top out to take the upper trail back to the road.

About 20m past Shanti, glue-in bolts up a slab with a small tree at the base.

Plaque labelling it as "Aint No Wifey 5.8 S", but grade is no harder than 5.6.

FA: Petra Slivka, 2016

1 5.5
2 5.8

A few meters right of "Ain't no wifey", another line of glue-in bolts run up the cliff.

Plaque labelling as "Cheat Stick 5.8 S" at the base, but climb is no harder than 5.7.

FA: Ken Flagg, 2016

A bit harder (10d/11a) if you skip the good holds out left to pull straight through the roof.

FA: Ken Flagg, 2016

Climbs up a short bit of slab to a vertical wall with green streaks and bolts. Up the face to a right facing corner/chimney right of a high roof, then finishes a bit left.

On the buttress just right of 'The Hulk' follow the crack system straight up the face and pull over the small roof. No bolted anchors, but there is a tree at the top.

FA: 12 Aug 2018

Start in the corner left of 'Bolts are for Kids'. Follow the corner, with minimal gear, under the rock spike, seems solid but I wouldn't be caught hanging off the end. Continue up into the corner of loose rock, try to avoid the massive spiders. Continue right into the diheadral and climb through the tree to the top on a lot more choss. no bolted anchors, try not to send rocks down to those below, would not recomend repeating even if it was clean, unless you are into choss, spiders, and climbing through trees.

FA: Andy Gnarr, 12 Aug 2018

Climb the dihedral/crack system to the roof. Follow the crack though the roof and up.

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