Site navigation

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

The far (south) end of the cliff. This area includes some of the higher parts of the cliff, with some long steep routes.

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

The approach to Lake Cliff appears to cross private land, and the cliff may be on private land as well.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

Approach

Generally best to approach along the hiking trail along the top of the cliff. There is a down-scramble with fixed rope about 100m before the Eagles' Nest lookout.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Start 5m left of "Live Rust".

Climb a short broken corner and step to the base of a thin crack. Follow the crack up to a small birch tree on a broken ledge (13m). Move left along the ledge to a small overhanging dihedral, which is climbed to the top.

Shortly after the point where the trail levels off after climbing up a moderate slope, there are a number of blocks which obstruct the trail. Start just right of these blocks. A prominent near-vertical left-slanting crack starts at this point and goes right to the top of the cliff.

Gain the crack from the right and follow it past a small overhang to a small ledge 12m up. Traverse right 2m, then follow a crack diagonally up to the right to a ledge at the base of a solitary pine tree. Exit via a short dihedral.

Follow the normal route for 12m to the small ledge. Instead of traversing right, follow the prominent crack straight up to the top. A bit harder than anything on the normal route.

Mixed climb. Interesting start into a well protected finger crack that spits out you onto a thin slab. Gear; #.5, #.75 and optionally a small TUC/X4 can probably go into the slab above the 3rd bolt and a #1 on the top out slab.

FA: JP Thomas

Climb three sections of slab past a small then a big ledge.

FA: Matthew Usherwood, 15 Apr 2016

10m left of Cream Puff is a large roof with a slab below it, and the left side of the slab is a corner, start up the corner.

Climb the corner to the roof, traverse rightwards under the roof to the end of the roof, then pull up onto the slab. Angle up and rightwards to the anchors for "Cream Puff".

A few meters left of Cream Puff some bolts head up a couple of overhangs -- currently (June 2018), the first bolt is red-tagged.

Left of "Cream Puff", though almost directly below its anchors is a steep jagged crack that pulls up through a notch in the roof about 8m up, then onto the easy slab again.

A steep face with good holds to the first bolt, then a tough pull onto the slab (crux), to the 2nd bolt. Easy climbing from there onwards, with good gear, to the anchors.

Label stone at bottom.

Set by Jp, 2015

FA: Jp, 2015

Start between a pair of trees, just left of Little Flo. Short vertical start, to obtain the slab, then slab the rest of the way.

Set by Matthew Usherwood, 2015

FA: Matthew Usherwood, 2015

Left side of a short slab, just north (climber's left) of the easy way down. Base is a bit exposed.

Set by Jp, 2015

FA: Jp, 2015

Right side of a short slab, just left of the easy way down. Climb the scoops.

Set by Matthew Usherwood, 2015

FA: Renee Marie Blanche, 2015

Climb the left-facing corner until the crack runs out. Make your way onto Scoops and finish.

Set by Matthew Usherwood, 2015

FA: Matthew Usherwood, 2015

There is a fixed rope to assist climbers here to provide easy access to to the base/top of the cliff.

If you hike all the way to the Eagles Nest Lookout, you have overshot this way down. It is about 200m back along the cliff, and down one scramble band.

Start as Head Banger. At the first rail instead of going up though the rails escape left to arete. Gain the arete and rejoin Head Banger.

Start right and then go left to follow the feature. The bottom is the crux. Once past the third bolt, it's smooth sailing. Takes a # .75 in the horizontal after the 3rd bolt, or a couple pieces between the 3rd & 4th bolts.

Follow corner to the top. Crux is low and has no gear. With a bolt and some cleaning could be a decent 2 start moderate climb.

The crux is at the roof, the 3rd bolt. Beneath the roof is a nice finger pocket for the left hand and then a nice layback for the right. Just above the roof line is a good right hand and then fire up and to the right of the 3rd bolt by a couple feet for a very good jug.

Name stone at base suggests grade is 5.11a.

Crimp and layback into the roof. Finger the pocket and fire for the finger lock.

Stone marker at base of climb reading Neat Cafe 5.11b Approx 20-25 meters Belay anchors at the top

FFA: unknown

FA: unknown

Set by unknown

A short, fingery route. Climb easily up to the undercling to make the first clip. Hard moves and a difficult second clip. Grade awaits confirmation.

FA: Michael Burke, May 2014

Start on a ramp and then climb the Arête.

FA: Richard Ivkovic

A really nice mixed climb a couple meters to the right of Neat Cafe. There is a marker at the bottom of the climb.

Climb the corner right of the bolted arete, to a steep finish.

Gear in the initial section is thin (assuming you avoid placing behind the detached looking pillar), though could be supplemented by borrowing a bolt or two from Arête.

It has a stone at the base labeling it "Dumbasser-ee 5.8 T", but if you head up this expecting a reasonable 5.8 trad climb, you will be unpleasantly surprised.

Sign at the bottom says,"Trdlo 5.9T".

Marker at the bottom of the climb. Easy climbing to a roof. Mantle over it (crux) to easier climbing.

Exciting climbing throughout. Marker at the bottom of the climb.

Climb a thin face (crux) past three bolts to a ledge. Then up a corner, to an arete, a short hand-traverse to a rest, then through a final small roof to the anchors.

Bolt 4 should be extended long to reduce rope drag, or even better, unclipped after bolt 5 has been clipped.

FA: JP Thomas, Oct 2016

FA: JP Thomas, Nov 2016

The lower half of Brick Top and currently the first route encountered when arriving at the Core Values Sector. All routes in this sector have markers at their base. Climb the vertical face passing several cruxes.

Set by Michael Burke & Martin Brisson

FA: Michael Burke, May 2015

Continue past the lower offs for Twinkie. Above, steep powerful moves lead to a thrilling top out. Avoid extra slack in the belay at the first crux.

Set by Michael Burke & Martin Brisson

FA: Michael Burke, May 2015

Good resistance climbing. Stick clip a high first bolt. A puzzling sequence leads to sustained climbing and a pumpy finish.

FA: Michael Burke, Mar 2011

One of the first routes developed at the sector. Stick clip a high first bolt. Hard moves off the ground lead to a rest out right. Progressively harder moves lead to a final mantle and a fixed belay on the slab above.

FA: Patrick David

Start as for Coward's Way Out. After the third clip, continue straight up through the steep overhang, past 2 bolts before re-joining CWO.

Located at the right end of the Core Values Sector. Stick clip the first bolt. At the fourth bolt traverse right to find an easier (but still hard) path through the overhang. Above, one more overhang leads to the chains.

Set by Michael Burke & Martin Brisson

FA: Michael Burke, May 2015

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Far End.