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The Far End

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Description

The far (south) end of the cliff. This area includes some of the higher parts of the cliff, with some long steep routes.

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. If you make a fire, keep it small and in a pit. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Lake Cliff is on crown land however the property line (Land owned by Calabogie Peaks Resort) runs along the north west end of the cliff. The land north east of the cliff is owned by the Greater Madawaska Township. The Township has given permission to establish and maintain the trail network found here that crosses township land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

Approach

Generally best to approach along the hiking trail along the top of the cliff. There is a down-scramble with fixed rope about 100m before the Eagles' Nest lookout.

Routes

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Grade Route

Mixed climb. Interesting start into a well protected finger crack that spits out you onto a thin slab. Gear; #.5, #.75 and optionally a small TUC/X4 can probably go into the slab above the 3rd bolt and a #1 on the top out slab.

FA: JP Thomas

Climb three sections of slab past a small then a big ledge.

FA: Matthew Usherwood, 15 Apr 2016

10m left of Cream Puff is a large roof with a slab below it, and the left side of the slab is a corner, start up the corner.

Climb the corner to the roof, traverse rightwards under the roof to the end of the roof, then pull up onto the slab. On the slab,can angle either right ("Cream Puff" anchors) or left (probably anchors for the sport/mixed route this crosses).

A few meters left of Cream Puff some bolts head up a couple of overhangs -- currently (June 2018), the first bolt is red-tagged.

Left of "Cream Puff", though almost directly below its anchors is a steep jagged crack that pulls up through a notch in the roof about 8m up, then onto the easy slab again.

A steep face with good holds to the first bolt, then a tough pull onto the slab (crux), to the 2nd bolt. Easy climbing from there onwards, with good gear, to the anchors.

Label stone at bottom.

Set by Jp, 2015

FA: Jp, 2015

Start between a pair of trees, just left of Little Flo. Short vertical start, to obtain the slab, then slab the rest of the way.

Set by Matthew Usherwood, 2015

FA: Matthew Usherwood, 2015

Left side of a short slab, just north (climber's left) of the easy way down. Base is a bit exposed.

Set by Jp, 2015

FA: Jp, 2015

Right side of a short slab, just left of the easy way down. Climb the scoops.

Set by Matthew Usherwood, 2015

FA: Renee Marie Blanche, 2015

Climb the left-facing corner until the crack runs out. Make your way onto Scoops and finish.

Set by Matthew Usherwood, 2015

FA: Matthew Usherwood, 2015

There is a fixed rope to assist climbers here to provide easy access to to the base/top of the cliff.

If you hike all the way to the Eagles Nest Lookout, you have overshot this way down. It is about 200m back along the cliff, and down one scramble band.

Start as Head Banger. At the first rail instead of going up though the rails escape left to arete. Gain the arete and rejoin Head Banger.

Start right and then go left to follow the feature. The bottom is the crux. Once past the third bolt, it's smooth sailing. Takes a # .75 in the horizontal after the 3rd bolt, or a couple pieces between the 3rd & 4th bolts.

This old route 'Easy Street' had been rediscovered as 'Head Corner', the two have now been merged.

Start at the obvious dihedral to the right of 'Head Banger' and left of 'Tampon Applicator'. By bridging, climb up to the top of the dihedral, then follow an obvious crack straight up to the top.

Follow corner to the top. Crux is low and has no gear. With a bolt and some cleaning could be a decent 2 start moderate climb.

FA: M Buck, 1985

The crux is at the roof, the 3rd bolt. Beneath the roof is a nice finger pocket for the left hand and then a nice layback for the right. Just above the roof line is a good right hand and then fire up and to the right of the 3rd bolt by a couple feet for a very good jug.

Name stone at base suggests grade is 5.11a.

Crimp and layback into the roof. Finger the pocket and fire for the finger lock.

Stone marker at base of climb reading Neat Cafe 5.11b Belay anchors at the top

FFA: unknown

FA: unknown

Set by unknown

Same start as Neat Cafe but follow the bolt line up the Arete.

Situated 50m past the '3rd Easy Way Down'. Look for a distinctive, 70cm wide square gap or notch in the overhang at the top of the cliff.

A sport variety of this climb has been bolted and named 'Strolsma'.

Follow a thin crack up a 4m face to the left end of a steep slab. Climb up the slab and continue up the overhanging dihedral to the exit at the notch.

FA: R Halka, S Adcock & J Cotter, 1987

Starts 2m right of Neat Cafe. Head up the crack to a low angle ramp then stroll up the jug haul above.

Set by James Ward & Dean Urness, 30 Sep 2018

FFA: James Ward, 30 Sep 2018

FFA: Dean Urness & Jonathan Dean Urness

The exact location of this older climb is still unknown to some. It is suspected it may be an all trad variation of 'Bad Roady'.

Immediately right of "Square Notch" there is a big roof near the top of the cliff. Start to the right of where the roof ends.

Climb the wall easily up to a short chimney with a deep wide crack at its back. Climb the chimney to the top.

This route has likely not been climbed in 10+ years and the only available information for locating the climb is listed above. Please correct/update if needed.

FA: J Prokopiak, R Bates, D Buck & J Whitteker, 1987

A short, fingery route. Climb easily up to the undercling to make the first clip. Hard moves and a difficult second clip. Grade awaits confirmation.

FA: Michael Burke, May 2014

Start on a ramp and then climb the Arête.

FA: Richard Ivkovic

A really nice mixed climb a couple meters to the right of Neat Cafe. There is a marker at the bottom of the climb.

Climb the corner right of the bolted arete, to a steep finish.

Gear in the initial section is thin (assuming you avoid placing behind the detached looking pillar), though could be supplemented by borrowing a bolt or two from Arête.

It has a stone at the base labeling it "Dumbasser-ee 5.8 T", but if you head up this expecting a reasonable 5.8 trad climb, you will be unpleasantly surprised.

FFA: Alex Atkin, 22 Aug 2016

FA: Alex Atkin & Shane Ferreira, 22 Aug 2016

Sign at the bottom says,"Trdlo 5.9T".

Marker at the bottom of the climb. Easy climbing to a roof. Mantle over it (crux) to easier climbing.

Unknown sport route right of She Got Drilled.

Please update if you know the details.

Exciting climbing throughout. Marker at the bottom of the climb.

Climb a thin face (crux) past three bolts to a ledge. Then up a corner, to an arete, a short hand-traverse to a rest, then through a final small roof to the anchors.

Bolt 4 should be extended long to reduce rope drag, or even better, unclipped after bolt 5 has been clipped.

FA: JP Thomas, Oct 2016

Start directly behind a large pine tree 7m to the left of a cairn (again, yeah, right).

Step up 1m onto a narrow slab. At the right end of this slab, step up onto another slab and follow it right 5m to a vegetated ledge. From this ledge, climb straight up over several large loose stacked blocks (the Scary Monsters). Exit to the left.

Start as for "Halloween". Follow Halloween for about 10m, then climb straight up an obvious overhanging V-corner. Step left at the top of the corner and climb diagonally left to the top.

The route was known for a while as Sleazy Route Grabbing Scumbags, to mark the fine behaviour of the first ascensionists.

Start behind a large pine tree 12m to the right of a cairn (yup, another cairn).

Step up onto the base of a narrow slab leading up to the right. Follow this slab to the right until past the overlying overhang (about 25m). Climb up and slightly right to the base of an arete. Continue to the top via a wide crack on the right side of the arete.

5.9 Climbing to very high first bolt. Find a way over the first bulge, cruse though some easy slab moves to the upward trending right dihedral. When the dihedral runs out get your slab game on for some delicate thin slab up to easy ground and a fun overhanging exit.

Thin crimps and some arete compression gets you into the jugs under the roof. Traverse right under the roof until you can find a way up. Find holds on the bleak slab and make your way up onto good holds and easy climbing to the chains.

FA: JP Thomas, Nov 2016

The lower half of Brick Top and currently the first route encountered when arriving at the Core Values Sector. All routes in this sector have markers at their base. Climb the vertical face passing several cruxes.

Set by Michael Burke & Martin Brisson

FA: Michael Burke, May 2015

Continue past the lower offs for Twinkie. Above, steep powerful moves lead to a thrilling top out. Avoid extra slack in the belay at the first crux.

Set by Michael Burke & Martin Brisson

FA: Michael Burke, May 2015

Good resistance climbing. Stick clip a high first bolt. A puzzling sequence leads to sustained climbing and a pumpy finish.

FA: Michael Burke, Mar 2011

One of the first routes developed at the sector. Stick clip a high first bolt. Hard moves off the ground lead to a rest out right. Progressively harder moves lead to a final mantle and a fixed belay on the slab above.

FA: Patrick David

Start as for Coward's Way Out. After the third clip, continue straight up through the steep overhang, past 2 bolts before re-joining CWO.

Set by Michael Burke

Located at the right end of the Core Values Sector. Stick clip the first bolt. At the fourth bolt traverse right to find an easier (but still hard) path through the overhang. Above, one more overhang leads to the chains.

Set by Michael Burke & Martin Brisson

FA: Michael Burke, May 2015

This newly bolted slab climb could top out onto Eagles Nest lookout. Hike up the slope past 'Coward's Way Out' and find the slab with glue in bolts on the left just where the trail levels off. The first 18 meters of this climb goes at about 5.5, maybe easier if you stay closer to the corner with one commiting move to get to the anchor.

Not 100% sure who set this, so a few more assents to confirm the grade would be appreciated. Also to add a name by the FA.

Start 5m left of "Live Rust".

Climb a short broken corner and step to the base of a thin crack. Follow the crack up to a small birch tree on a broken ledge (13m). Move left along the ledge to a small overhanging dihedral, which is climbed to the top.

Follow the normal route for 12m to the small ledge. Instead of traversing right, follow the prominent crack straight up to the top. A bit harder than anything on the normal route.

Shortly after the point where the trail levels off after climbing up a moderate slope, there are a number of blocks which obstruct the trail. Start just right of these blocks. A prominent near-vertical left-slanting crack starts at this point and goes right to the top of the cliff.

Gain the crack from the right and follow it past a small overhang to a small ledge 12m up. Traverse right 2m, then follow a crack diagonally up to the right to a ledge at the base of a solitary pine tree. Exit via a short dihedral.

About 6m right of the slab, with a bit of scrambling along the base. New set of glue-ins, doesn't looked cleaned as of 24-Aug-19.

Clean from about halfway up to the anchor. Quality route

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