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Home Cliff

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Description

A solid piece of south-facing granite rock. Easily visible from the road, with a short approach, this is a very popular local area.

This cliff is south-facing and generally fairly wind-sheltered, making it a good early/late season cliff, but not generally a good choice for a hot summer day.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approach

Take highway 148 west out of Gatineau, turn right on the second junction with Cregheur road, and proceed until the large boulder/bulge on the right with a parking pull-off just before it. (About 30 minutes from downtown Gatineau.)

A little farther along the road, will be a cart track along the right side of a farmer's field -- follow the cart track (stay on the track) to the back of the field, then left along the edge of the field until a trail leads up into the bushes. Follow the trail, through some small boulders to a wooden stair up to the cliff. 15-20 minutes.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

History

View historical timeline

One of the first, if not the first, cliffs climbed in the area.

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Closed Right Side Sector
17
1
80m

Routes

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Grade Route

The left-most named climb on the Main Corner area, it goes up the Arete at the foot of the ascent/descent gully. Variations branching out on the wall to the left of the Arete are possible. 2 bolt anchor at top.

FA: Adof Bauer, 1959

About halfway between Broken Corner and "Crack and Block" there is a faint vertical crack splitting the upper part of the face, start on some good holds then work your way up to the crack (the edge of the wide crack on the right is part of "Crack and Block", not this climb). No protection for the first part (the hard part), so top-rope (anchors for Broken Corner) may be preferred.

This is more of a V2 boulder problem, top-roped (because of the tumble-off at the landing) than a climbing route.

FA: G Jackson, 1994

Climb the obvious crack that leads to blocks about 3m right of the arete (Broken Corner). Variations around the "block" are possible.

FA: unknown

About 2m left of Main Corner is a thin crack that leads up to a ledge and a continuation of the crack above the ledge. 2 Bolts as anchors.

Climb up the main corner to a ledge, traverse left along the ledge then exit at "Crack and Block".

FA:

The obvious "main corner". 2 bolts for an anchor at top.

FA: S Heiberg & D Weichert, 1961

Starts a meter or so right of Main Corner, then up onto a sloping ledge (ramp) and upwards to the corner above. 2 bolts for anchor.

Start about 6m right of the Main Corner, and climb the face up to a 2-bolt anchor. Lots of variations possible.

Start one terrace down from Back to the Wall.

Climb up the dihedrals to a couple ledges, then finish up the arete above.

This is one of the better protected climbs on this section of the cliff.

This has been climbed as a top-rope variation from the "Back to the Wall", but has recently had its own anchor installed and a bit of cleanup done on the route itself.

Start just left of the major arete right of main corner. Move up to a large ledge on the right. Traverse down and rightwards along the ledge to the end end, and a bolted anchor. (Optional belay, anchor is for a sport climb below.) Head up the crack to the right then continue diagonal up and right ending at the anchors for "Peggy".

Not often climbed anymore, so a bit dirty and licheny. Also occasionally run-out, and committing for a 5.3 -- not a good early lead.

Follow the bolts straight up the overhanging wall. After gaining the ledge, continue past two more bolts to reach the anchor. Although easy climbing, it is significantly runout between the last bolt and the anchor. Some gear placements are available.

FA: J Flamand, 1965

FFA: Peter Slivka, 1994

Climb the bolted face between Direttissisma and Peggy.

Start as for "Peggy". Climb up to the square block, then pass it on the left. From the top of the block, make a rising traverse leftwards to the arete, to join "Arete and Ramp".

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FFA: P Reilly, P Millette & D Lowrie, 1986

A prominent left facing corner 10m to the right of Arete and Ramp. Climb up to a square block. Pass it on the right, then continue up the corner, using the arete as desired. Finish up a short wall.

Opening move onto the initial ramp is unusually difficult, then rest of the climb goes at a comfortable 5.5.

FA: D Haumann & M Peer, 1959

Starts on the ramp just right of "Peggy" -- the lower of the two parallel ramps.

  1. (5.6) Climb up the ramp immediately right of "Peggy", then traverse back left to belay on top of the square block of Peggy.

  2. (5.6) Climb 3m up the corner, then step right onto the arete. Traverse right at more or less constant height all the way to "Piton Highway", up which the route finishes.

Original PG/R, but now can borrow bolts from several climbs that it crosses in what was, formerly, the badly run-out section, meaning it now is quite well protected.

Also, it can be climbed in a single pitch rope lengthwise, but two pitches is advisable for rope-drag issues.

Climb the face to the right of Peggy. 5 bolts & gear.

FA: Peter Slivka, 1994

Start as per "Rupert Bear Goes Hiking", but climb directly up and leftwards towards the thin crack and bolt. Poorly protected until the ledge is reached.

FA: R Chisnal & B Baxter

Start 6m right of of the arete of "Peggy". At a place where there is horizontal finger crack in the bright pink rock.

Climb up angling slightly rightwards towards the cave, then hand-traverse leftwards to a ledge below a crack that rises diagonally rightwards (visible bolt). Climb up this crack rightwards, then generally up and right following bolts to a shared anchor with "The Original Route" and "Lavender".

FA: J Flamand ('60s), 1965

FFA: S Adcock & B Parior, 1979

Start below a cave about 6m off the ground, and climb up to its right-hand side. Pull through the cave & roof as you can (left side, direct, right-side -- all have choices) to a bolt. Follow the bolts to the shared anchor at top.

FA: J Flamand, 1965

FFA: J Cotter & S Adcock, 1984

5 bolts + gear.

About 6m left of Piton Highway, climb up diagonally right to a small notch in the overhang, pull over at the right side of this notch, then traverse back leftwards to a thin crack (bolt). Climb up this, then up and leftwards following bolts to below the final anchor and straight up to it. Shares anchor with "The Original Route" and Rupert Bear.

Excellent climbing throughout

FA: J Flamand, 1965

FFA: J Goldack, 1975

Starting a few meters left of Piton highway, there is a low bolt, start up to this, pulling the initial overhang very close to (unnamed 3) then follow the line of bolts that angles leftwards up the cliff.

FA: 2008

Just left of Piton Highway is a sparse set of bolts heading up parallel to it. Climb the line defined by these bolts to an anchor a couple meters left of the Piton Highway anchor.

At the far right of the climbable area, look for the obvious left-facing vertical corner. Climb this direct to a short wall, then up to a pair of bolts for anchors. A couple of bolts have recently been added in places that used to be protect by old pitons.

There are a couple variations: Piton Arete: use the Arete to bypass the hard moves in the corner. 5.6. Piton Byway: follow Piton Highway to the hard moves, traverse right on big holds, then up right of the Arete. 5.6

FA: E Marshall & D Wotherspoon, 1968

Start the same as "Piton Highway". Gain the arete and climb bypassing the corner. Finish as for "Piton Highway".

Follow "Piton Highway" to the first hard moves at the foot of the corner. Traverse 1m right on huge holds. Go straight up, keeping slightly right of Piton Highway/Arete until the final wall. Finish as per "Piton Highway".

Or, for a longer variation, start above the leaning boulder at the belay and climb directly up from there to the face right of the arete, and continue staying completely right of the line of Piton Highway/Arete until the finishing moves at the anchor.

The climbs right of Piton Byway are closed (as of approximately 2006) by the NCC.

The listings are included for historical record.

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