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Down Under

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Description

A topo is currently (May 2011) available for this area at: http://www.drtopo.com/guidebooks/pdf_guides/quebec/Gatineau/luskville.pdf

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb most Left route on the wall

FA: 1997

Finish on price of business. Easier finish

FA: 2021

hard crux to finish on easier climbing

for Beta of the crux video here

https://youtu.be/0jvUKTaHlq8

FA: 1991

start on malzheit and after the crux move little right to finish on anti gravity. more sustained

FA: Louis Rainville, 2008

start on anti gravity and move little left after 4th bolt to finish on easier climbing

FA: Louis Rainville, 2008

Climb the beautiful lay back feature and finish on tricky top

FA: 1996

Start on Slovak just left of the beast but traverse Right (aftet 2nd bolt)to finish on Anchors of true grit

FA: May 2021

Do Slovak & Grit but finish at the top of the Beast

Climb the start of Anti-Gravity to traverse right to finish on The Beast

This is most likely impossible. In the overhang there is no real hold for a stretch of 10 feet. Good luck! Maybe first V16 on rope in Canada

Start on Exodus and link into Anti-Gravity. Most sustained route of downunder.

The longest route at Down Under, The Beast is also the most difficult free climb in the area and, at the time it was first climbed (1998), one of the hardest in the province. Its line is dictated by the elegant prow overlooking the steepest section of the crag. this climbing is harder if short

FA: Etienne Poirier, 1998

After the 5th bolt of The Beast, step right to the anchors of True Grit.

for beta video see here

https://youtu.be/zMenaaKCoOo

FA: 1999

climb true grit and finish on anchor of the beast

FA: Louis Rainville, 2008

Climb obvious Crack to finish on tricky top

FA: 1995

Doesn't use the big edge to the left.

Just left of Sausages be ready for crux at 3 bolt

Start on Big jugs of el nino. Move up and right to finish Sausages

FA: 1995

Climb Sausages and keep climbing straight after the third draw on crimps.

Probably the most climbed-on route at Down Under, often used as a warm-up. Below and to the right of the small cave at the top is an interesting no-hands rest.

A rather unsustained climb. You might want a nut in the bottom crack.

Project squeezed in between Catwoman and Pizza Slut. Hard Dyno to finish on easier climbing.

just left of Pieta de roma, short and powerful. Back in those days this was done without using holds from Pieta de roma. Perfectly alright if you want to use them!

FA: George hack, 2000

Stick clip? 3 bolts for this one. Gym like climb!

FA: 1998

start on pieta de roma and finish on sausages

FA: Louis Rainville, 2006

Start on Pieta de Roma and finish on your wife. Little zig zag but different, move right after 1st bolt.

FA: 2020

start beside pieta de roma avoiding big holds of pieta de roma. using pinchs and crimps move just right and after 2nd botl line is distinct. v4 into 11 climbing into v5 ish.

FA: Louis Rainville, 2000

Climb a few harder moves on the face to continue on Your wife. try to avoid big flake out left to start

FA: 2000

First route on the right side of the wall

FA: 1991

Start low in the cave with a right hand pinch and left on undercling beside like in the video. Starting higher will make it easier. Video https://youtu.be/3biTnptxYOQ

FA: Louis Rainville, 2008

V10 Dyno ?? Boulder underneath is out!

V13? Sloper project short and powerful!! Campus? Heal hook?

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Activity

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