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Penguin Boulder 🚫

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 63

Climbing in this area is closed.

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Description

Nice aesthetic rock on a hill. Clean, flat landings. Some real problems and some contrivances.

Access is questionable, at best. This is not part of the escarpment, so one might argue it isn't covered by the closure -- but the current phrasing on the NCC website is to list only the sections of the park where climbing is open, and this is not listed.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approach

Park at Penguin Picnic ground and follow trail #1 down the hill and across the road. Boulder is 100m down the trail from the road. Can't miss it.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Follow crack up and right then onto jugs and flake. Keep going right around the corner and top out over Gonzo.

Closed

Sit Start on small holds right of the crack.

Closed

One move wonder.

Closed

Start on bad sloper at face level. Topout.

Closed
Closed
Closed
Closed
Closed

Follow the obvious crack.

Closed

Sit start on left facing slot. Pull on and move up then left on good holds.

Closed

Start low on ok crimps and follow good holds

Closed

Start on small rock at base of boulder matched on the decent rail. Move up, trending right on good ledges and jugs.

Closed

Sit start on small holds. Pull on with difficulty and move up to flame shaped stain. Top out.

Activity

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