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Climbing in this area is closed.

description

The obivous chimney/crack on the side of the buttress facing the Ottawa river.

Route history

There is no known route history.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 45.54435, -76.01759

Grade citation

5.6 Assigned grade
5.10b [5.10a - 5.10c] ++ grAId
5.6 *

access issues

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

inherited from Eardley Escarpment

ethic

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

inherited from Eardley Escarpment

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
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J
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O
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 44 from 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Tick 1
Attempt 1

Comment keywords

fun dihedral

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Sun 16 Apr
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