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Meathooks Area Mostly Sport climbing 8 routes in area

Grade context: US
Ascents: 256

YDS

5.10c 5.11a 5.11c 5.12a

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Furtherest left route. Short but packs an absolte punch. Watch the pockets get small on the traverse to 4th bolt. Same as meathooks but with a crux down lower.

One of the most sort after 11's in the Bow Valley. Every hold is a jug with a few sequences gaining the lip and exiting it (crux). Ridiculously fun and pumpy!

FA: Daren Tremaine, 1994

A crimper-jug start followed with some of the biggest buckets imaginable. Big moves and body position will dictate success on the final lip. Crank it!! A step up from meathooks for sure.

Climb the biggest buckets to a funky low powerful move over the bulge. A huge middle rest gets you prepared for an epic fight through sequential jugs over the steepest part. A big move gains, guess what? More buckets

Steep climbing on huge buckets over the big bulge with a few big moves. Sustained pumpy climbing to the anchors! Total endurance

The route is graded on pump, but the buckets do run out into smaller jugs in 2 sections. 30m's of constant overhanging steep powerful climbing. Pray for a low gravity day and that your arms don't explode!

FA: Mark Whalen & Eric Hoogstraten, 2001

Obscurely steep for the grade. Maybe more like 11a? Who knows. Hardware is hard to locate but it comes out the right side of the cave. Body positioning is key on jugs the whole way. Pity it stinks like rat piss and half the cave is rat shit. Unpopular

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Bow Valley Sport 3rd Edition

Author(s): Derek Galloway

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781777147112

The Bow Valley is known amongst sport climbers as some of the best summer climbing in Canada. The third edition of this comprehensive guide includes the newest crags, as well as the best cliffs that Banff, Canmore and Lake Louise has to offer. Tips on trip planning and rest day activities, info on the local flora and fauna, and tof topos and action shots get you psyched for your visit.

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