• Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 30min
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 1,040
  • Aka: As de pique




The main developed cliff at Kamouraska.

Most routes are along the main cliff line, but a few are on some of the larger boulders in the talus below the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Kamouraska

This crag is privatly owned but operated by the SEBKA. Access to the crag is allowed via the property/farm owner by utilizing the indicated trail at the parking lot. As for any crag around the world, please respect his property in order to maintain access is to this jewel of a crag.

Parking passes are available at the SEBKA information center.

People who wish to climb need to pay a fee at the SEBKA. Day passes are on sale for 8$ and annual passes for 35$. This last option also gives you access to "La Montagne d'Argent" in the Laurentians.


The parking lot is located approx 1 km east of the SEBKA information center along the 132 hwy. Directly across the parking lot is a clearly identified trail, which after a 2 km up-hill approach ( approx 30 mins walk ) leads to the crag. Follow indications along the trail network for "La Grimpe".

Approach trail is clearly identified and maintained. Please keep to the trail.

Descent notes

Almost all routes have top anchors -- lower off or rappel.

Ethic inherited from Kamouraska

As for the vast majority of crags, this one is owned privatly by a local farmer and exploited by the SEBKA. Do your part, respect his property.

Smoking at the crag is considered bad karma.

Dogs are not allowed access.


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Grade Route

Around the corner to the left from where the trail arrives at the crag.

The first sport route to the left or the crag, just right of the corner. A good warm-up.

Up the black streak.

Dangerous start with top roping, take are of the flexibility of the rope otherwise you might hit the stone block bellow.

Behind the big boulder that looks like the main cliff face at first...

Routes near where the approach trail arrives at the cliff face.

Top-rope up the left arete of the boulder that looks to be the cliff.

Climb the crack in the small corner between Le sexe des anges and Lache lousse. A former trad climb (could still be protected on gear), now retro-bolted.

Wicked roof on jugs, impressive but easy once you get going. One of the nicest 5.10 in Kamouraska.

A very nice route for the grade. Start with a tricky section down low, then avoid the two roofs to the right. Same anchors as Travaux Forcés.

The low crux is followed by pumpy jug hauling to an easy finish.

The grade at the bottom says 5.10c, but it feels much easier. Start with a pumpy move, then follow the arete. Same anchors as Travaux Forcés.

An easy classic up the slab with gigantic holes.

Nice and varied, a couple of really nice moves down low. The birch tree in the picture is now gone.

An old route? Looks dirty. Grade please!

Routes that start just up around a rib to the right of the arrival area until you ascend to an open talus field.

Nice climbing up a short face, then groove. After the last bolt go up and left to find the anchors.

Another old route? Missing anchors?

Crag classic. Up the beautiful white face.

Never done anymore. Missing anchors?

Crag classic. Up the slab with holes to a tricky move near the top.

A small set of easy routes on slabs above a large open talus field.

Follow the fixed rope up to the belay. Unknown name, grade based on looks only (please update)

Follow bolts up and right to connect with unknown 3. Unknown name.

Fixed rope to belay. Unknown name, grade based on looks only (please update)

A new easy route.

Long featured slab with a ledge half way and ledge at the top.

A short pumpy route on the big block detached from the main wall.

Crag classic with medium to long line-ups on weekends.

Another classic... very busy on weekends. No crazy hard moves but hard to do the whole thing without resting!

Excellent climbing with a nice bouldery finish.

A short crux up top... stay right until you reach the chains.

The roof with monster jugs and the accessible grade make this one of the most popular routes of the area.

Almost as good as the one to the left. Very exposed once you step on the slab near the top.

The steep overhanging face with jugs.

New route. Long and varied, deserving more traffic

Quite easy for the grade... take advantage of the rest before the very pumpy overhang! One of the best routes of the crag, just do it!

Very similar to the one on the left, and just as good!

Never done anymore. Very dirty. Not recommended.

Short boulder problem. Not on the main cliff. When at "Le roi des synapses" look down the hill for a big overhanging boulder.

New route. Good and quite long, but a few loose rocks near the top.

After "Le tango des tomates", go for a bit of a walk... until you come around a corner to find a long (30m) right-facing slab.

The first of four new routes in a section with lots of potential.

New route (as of July 2019), to the right of "Dalle d'attente".

Dirty and some loose rocks in the first half. Nice finish.

Deux longues dégaines permettent de réduire un peu le "drag".

Just right of Arthrose.

10 minutes walking past "Alzheimer"...

10min de marche après Arthrose, chemin difficile

10 minutes de marches après Arthrose, terrain difficile

10 min de marche après Arthrose, chemin difficile


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