Routes in Goat Mountain

route runs just right of the white stain running down the wall, walk off available, bring some wires, mostly bolted

Climb the tree to start.

Continue above Shakedown anchor.

delete this climb

Starts about 150m left of the Coire Dubh gulley. Walk off descent via the gully between Kid Goat and Nanny Goat.

Starts in a right facing corner 100m left of the Coire Dubh gully. Rap with a 70m rope or walk off climbers left to the gully between Kid Goat and Nanny Goat and descend by walking down the gully.

A dry tooling route to the left of Coire Dubh Integrale. Climb the ice and initial gully as for Coire Dubh Integrale but then at the top of the gully head straight up and climb below the major right facing corner system of the main face. Some bolts assist with the protection.

The classic mini alpine route 20 minutes from Canmore. Climb the WI3 curtain down low than scramble up low angle ice heading up the gully. At the top of the gully take a hard right for a few hundred meters to hit the left facing corner which presents the M4 crux of the route. Climb this to a tree belay. Continue up following mostly corners aiming for the large left facing corer feature at the top of the mountain. From here the direct finish is Coire Dubh Integral, or the right side finish is Coire Dubh. For CDI continue up trending slightly right pitching/scrambling as necessary. The second crux is found in a chimney (bolt) followed by a single bolt belay. Then traverse right 60m. Before heading straight to the top of the ridge. Walk off via Loder peak scrambling trail.

The classic mini alpine route 20 minutes from Canmore. Climb the WI3 curtain down low than scramble up low angle ice heading up the gully. At the top of the gully take a hard right for a few hundred meters to hit the left facing corner which presents the M4 crux of the route. Climb this to a tree belay. Continue up following mostly corners aiming for the large left facing corer feature at the top of the mountain. From here the direct finish is Coire Dubh Integral, or the right side finish is Coire Dubh. For CD traverse right and up. Pitching/scrambling as needed up a series of ledges. Followed by a short pitch to the ridge top. This route is much less sustained than CDI. Walk off via Loder peak scrambling trail.

see topo and description on Tabvar.org Rock quality is average for the area (i.e..awful by most standards). Route finding is fairly straightforward as bolts guide the way. Pitch difficulty ratings seem a bit inconsistent. Description & topo are accurate. We combined pitches where suggested. As description says this route should not be taken lightly and the cumulative effect of lots of climbing is tiring, however, generally there were hard cruxes in pitches at the stated grade but relatively non-strenuous climbing between, as one would expect on a cliff of this angle (Less than vertical). Protection generally good but the last pitch has a scary fall potential at a "10b stem" section that I thought was the crux of the whole climb (poorly protected).10D section after that seemed straight forward and not very hard. We had double set of cams to 3" but could have left the second 2" and 3" at home. We did not know the Coire Dubh descent & darkness was approaching so trudged all the way down the Loder peak ridge trail to the road (2.5h is about right). Thanks Andy for the effort putting it up.