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Upper Left Wing

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 5
3

Seasonality

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Description

The band of cliffs up and left of the tall arching band of rock that is Lower Left Wing - the eyebrow.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)

Approach

See approach for "Left Wing", with a double-rap as an alternative:

When the approach trail from the parking reaches the top of the ridge turn right (west) and follow the ridge-top trail. This will climb up to a high-point on the ridge, then drop into and climb out of a small ravine. Continue for another 10 minutes or so, passing the cairn that marks the scramble descent, until the trail climbs another, less pronounced, high point. At the top of this, there will be an obvious, exposed cliff-top area with open views of the lake. Continue along the top of the cliff-edge until you step past a piece of rock with a bolt & hangar, above a gentle slab that slowly gets steeper as you go down.

The main rap anchors are a few meters down from the single bolt. Use it to protect access to the main anchors if not comfortable just walking to them.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.3 30m
2 5.1 10m

not a well-established or cleaned route

About 5m left of Mixed Precipitation, there is a tree right at the base of the cliff. Stem off the tree to get onto the slab.

Climb up the channel between the huge (submarine) sized detached black to the left and the crack, then aim for a small-left facing corner with a crack behind it. Near the top of this, step right then up slab to a loose ledge. Scrabble around on the ledge, until you find some trees to anchor on.

From anchor, climb some short steep faces on good holds to the easy finishing slab.

FFA: Kate Hunt & David Gibbs, 19 Jun 2016

1 5.8 25m
2 5.4 23m

Start at the base of a right-facing corner, with a large roof above the back wall of the corner, about 10m up.

  1. 25m (5.8, 11 bolts). Climb the corner until just below the roof. Step left, to avoid the roof, then follow the obvious broken crack line upwards above the corner. Fixed belay.

  2. 23m (5.4, 8 bolts). From the anchor step right, then continue up the steepest part of the cliff above, until the climbing eases off to a stroll to the anchor.

With two bolted anchors, this can be rappelled to get to the base of Upper Left Wing, or the top of Main Cliff.

FA was done on gear, later bolted by FA.

FFA: David Gibbs (P1) & Kate Hunt (P2), 19 Jun 2016

[closed project]

About 10 m right of Mixed Precipitation, at the right of the edge of the slab . Start either along the crack under the lower roof or up just left of that, onto a slab. Follow the crack, past the right edge of the upper roof. Continue to follow flaky cracks to the anchor.

Bottom access only.

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