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Main Cliff

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Description

This is the obvious largest cliff on the entire hillside, dominating the left side of the formation.

Most of the routes on this cliff are not yet well-established or cleaned, they are tentative, test, or under development. Any visits to this cliff section should be considered "exploratory".

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)

Approach

See "Left Wing" for approach -- involves descending a couple of fixed ropes, or much scrambling. In future, one or more of the routes may be set up for rappel, too.

Now rap anchor above top of (Felix's Route), this is likely a 35m rap to the base, but can be used to easily get to the top anchors of Ninnyhammer, Felix's Route, or An Unexpected Journey, from which it would be about a 30m rap to the base.

Base still requires work for path between climbs.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

About 20m left of UK-Swiss Confederation there is some easy (5.1?) but dirty slab with a fixed rope down it. It is an easy way in/out from the base of Left Wing - Main Cliff.

could probably use one more brushing to dust everything off

Top access down and to the left (facing uphill) of Ninnyhammer. Easily accessible anchor. Well bolted for easy ascent at this cliff.

Start to the left of Ninnyhammer (currently this is the left most route that is developed here). After a step up right, head mostly straight up along the bolt line. The first few moves are 5.6, after that it is no harder than 5.5.

Start below an obvious right-facing short dihedral about 5m up the cliff.

Climb up to the dihedral and through it (crux), to easier ground then another headwall before the anchors.

Bolted route up left-side of the cliff.

VARIANT: After the easy stuff the route splits into two variants. Straight up is about 5.7 with smaller pockets, while the right variant (over the block that Felix Felicis skirts) is a bit easier and has larger flaky holds.

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Set by Simon McMillan

FA: Simon McMillan (TR), 2 Oct 2016

FFA: Simon McMillan, 30 Sep 2017

Start right of Ninnyhammer along a crack then onto a slab and over the roof. Then continue straight up, to an anchor in Ninnyhammer. 4 bolts.

Set by Simon McMillan, 1 Jun

FA: Simon McMillan, 28 Jun

Between Ninnyhammer and An Unexpected Journey; mixed trad with 6 bolts and a top anchor. A rope leads from an access anchor at the top to the anchor for Felix Felicis.

Most of the climb goes on gear, four bolts to start and two more higher up. The first 5 metres or so are about 5.9, with interesting balancy moves. There are no gear placement options in this part. The rest of the route goes at about 5.7 with gear placement options throughout.

Pull up a short steep opening onto a slab. Continue up to a short head-wall bypassed on the right using a wide-crack or left with a mantle to a small shelf. Up easier climbing to a short steep section(crux), then easier climbing to anchors.

Probably 5.9+ to 5.10a.

Set by Simon McMillan

FA: TR summer 2017

FFA: David Gibbs, 30 Sep 2017

Starts up a short steep face, before moving left onto a small platform and up a left-facing corner.

Top anchor has a short approach rope for the traverse to or from the climbing anchor.

FA: Kate Hunt (top rope), 15 Sep 2018

FFA: Kate Hunt, 4 Jul

A second bolt line now goes to Arnor's top anchor. It is an in-progress route, and not ready for climbing.

From the top, it descends skiers left from anchors on a small knob at the obvious high point of the wall. (There is now a 2nd line of bolts sharing the top anchor - -it is an in-progress route. Stay right when rappelling off the anchor for Arnor.)

Start below a short right-facing corner.

  1. 5.9+, 20m. 12 bolts. Climb to the corner and then the corner (far too short) to a small ledge. Up and right across a slab to a small bulge with a tooth of rock hanging down. Pass the bulge right of the tooth, to a 2-bolt belay.

  2. 5.9. 25m. 8? bolts. Climb up easier ground to a vertical face, then more easy ground to a thin finish.

FA: David Gibbs & Simon McMillan, 23 May

FFA: David Gibbs, 4 Jul

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Start below some low roofs on the wall, about 5m left of the large left-facing dihedral.

Go up a left-facing crack, then traverse up and right towards a large flake, about 1m below the roofs. Up past the height of the roofs, then angle leftwards above the roofs following the path of least resistance and available placements, up to and over a small stand of trees, then up through a notch and finally exit rightwards to some trees just above the top of the dihedral.

FFA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 11 Sep 2011

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Follow a direct line up the cliff where Wandering Frog wanders a bit more, following gear and easier climbing.

FA: Bertrand Braschi (TR), 11 Sep 2011

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Climb the obvious large left-facing dihedral up the center of left wing.

FA: Kate Hunt (TR), 11 Sep 2011

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large detached flake (up to body-width seperated at the top of it) that climbs about 4-5m up from the base. Climb this, then step from it across onto the main face. Climb fairly directly up from there, staying to the left of the large (3m high) completed detached pillar/block about 1/2 way up the face. (Not obviously just-sitting-there from the bottom, but is so as you climb past it.)

This is a rope-stretcher for a 70m rope, but the opening couple of meters or so to the base of the detached flake can be scrambled.

FA: Bertrand Braschi (TR), 11 Sep 2011

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Climb the face about 5m right of Scintille -- staying right of the large detached block.

FA: David Gibbs (TR), 11 Sep 2011

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

About 5m further over from "One Tree Over".

A short section of good climbing to the right of some dark streaks in the rock.

(Top-rope by re-direction rightwards from the top anchor of Scintille.)

FA: Bertrand Braschi (TR), 11 Sep 2011

Route begins on dirty, crumbly slab under 4ft wide roof. Above that roof there is a huge protruding pinkish chunk of rock with short wide crack splitting it through the middle.

  1. (Beginning is R rated, G if bolted in the future) Go up the slab with sketchy pro under the roof and clear it from the left (easier) or straight (harder). No protection here, need for bolt. From there aim straight through the wide crack described earlier and get on ledge with vegetation (possible belay here).

  2. Go up on slab and slightly to the left looking for pro, left of short overhang, again run out on slab and up aiming for distinct right facing corner with a narrow seam at the bottom. Follow the corner with seam widening to a hand crack. Gain the overhang and traverse underneath to the right. When you reach the arete climb up on easier rock and top out (need for anchor).

FA: Michał Sz (TRS), 25 Sep 2016

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