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Pink Floyd Wall

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Description

These climbs start off a ledge about 8m above and left of the base of TnA wall.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)

Approach

Rappel in. Or, from the base of TnA wall, follow the fixed rope up and left.

Descent notes

Rappel or lower-off.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Start a short scramble down and left from the start of "Another Brick in the Wall", bolt for belayer.

Climb a short sequence of 5.4 moves past 3 bolts, then an easy (5.1ish), well-protected 20m romp to the anchors.

A good climb for learning to lead on gear.

This climb does not easily top-out. (Well, it mostly does, but with no easy trail back to the rest of the top-outs.)

FA: Chantalle Boudreau

FFA: David Gibbs & Chantalle Boudreau, 6 Nov 2016

At the far left end of the ledge below Pink Floyd wall (left end of the safety rope) there is a groove that heads up and rightwards.

Climb up the groove, passing above and left of the large cedar. Cross "Ummagumma" clipping one bolt, then up the thin crack in the face right of the arete.

FFA: David Gibbs, 24 May 2015

Start about 5m right of "Another Brick in the Wall", below and right of a large cedar tree growing low out of the cliff.

Climb the right-facing corner or slab to its right passing below then left of the cedar tree. Continue up the left-facing wall in the gully, clipping bolts high and right, stemming in the corner as needed. (Climbing only the right wall in the gully is probably about 5.7.)

FFA: Kate Hunt, 3 May 2015

Right of Ummagumma is a left-facing dihedral where the left wall starts as slab and turns into roof. Climb the corner and pull over the roof, then up the crack above.

FFA: Helen Tsai, 14 Jun 2015

A few meters right of "Camalot" is another left-facing corner, about a meter right of a birch tree sticking out from the cliff about 1m off the ledge.

Climb the slabby face and/or left-facing corner, then bulges directly above the corner to a blunt arete. Continue up the blunt arete to anchors. For full value, don't use the corner/crack of Camalot.

Bolts run close to the bolts for "Shine on You Crazy Diamond", but this line generally climbs left of that bolt line.

FFA: Phillip Price, 17 Oct 2015

Starts left of the birch, and shares the first 2-3 bolts (depnding on exactly how you choose to climb it) with "Stolen Land". Below the third bolt, rather than continuing upwards, step down and right, and pull onto the face above the low roof. Then continue up and right to the next bolt near a horn. From there, continue up and right to a platform, then back left up a shallow dihedral with a thin & broken crack in the back.

At times, the bolts for this run confusingly close to the bolts for "Stolen Land", but this climb generally runs to the right of the bolts in that section.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt (TR), 18 Sep 2011

FFA: David Gibbs, 24 Oct 2015

Bolted, but as yet un-lead (open project) - grade estimate mid-5.11. First bolt might need stick-clip (or pre-clip when rapping in.) Might still want a bit more cleaning.

In the middle of the low overhang is a small notch. Pull up through the notch on small holds to easier going on the slab above. Continue up to the next roof above, and pull over that as well.

6 bolts to anchor, 7 to top-out anchor.

FA: Conrad "Flo" Florian Bentzinger, 25 May 2013

This route starts just at the right edge of the low overhang, where it turns upwards to be the start of "Escapism".

Pull onto the face. Climb upwards towards the right side of the overhang above, climb up this stay to the left edge of the dihedral and on the face. Pull up onto a ledge with a notch near the left edge, then up easier ground to anchors, or continue to the top.

FA: David Gibbs (TR), 18 Sep 2011

FFA: David Gibbs, 2013

From the start of "Welcome to the Machine", which is the right-most route accessible from the safety rope, follow the edge of the wall up and right until you reach a line of bolts proceeding up an angular corner. (If you continue up and right, next line of bolts is "The Arete", which is significantly harder.)

Climb the corner, pulling out left onto the slab at the top. Then angle back right above the corner and up to an anchor.

Can top-out, but leaves a bit of an exposed scramble at the top - not recommended.

FFA: David Gibbs, 1 Jul

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