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Mt MacDonald Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Takuma Valcourt Nick Crowther Eric Bates Bill Noble Allen Agopsowicz Mark Stafford Seanathon claydotd James Ward

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Mt MacDonald 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
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A
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J
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S
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Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.440189, -123.564416

summary

bomber rock nice walkup great warm up on approach

approach

Follow humpback to parking lot. Drive up until you see a small sign on the left. Follow access trail across creek and up on the other sie de walk along the creek to the left for a while until yoy hit a fork. Follow left for cliff base and right for summit hikes.

ethic

leave no trace

1.1. Main Wall 26 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Social Deviant

few reachy moves put you into a 5.9 gear swallowing crack 20 meters gear to 2 inches

5.10b Trad 20m
2 Optional Contusion

Sustained 10c/d moves until the final crank fest 12draws

5.11c Sport 22m, 12
3 Zombie apocalypse

a strenuous start puts you into the crack a few moves later you are at the crux with its hidden holds and thin feet

5.11a Sport 22m, 12
4 Dark energy 5.9

Tricky moves along the ramp allows you access to the crack and great gear

FA: Allen Agopsowicz & johnathan bell, 2013

5.9 Trad
5 Powerline revised

gear to 3 inches the left side of the huge crack is now a test piece for gear heads. watch for a few fixed pieces and bring a few slings with you

5.9 Trad 50m
6 Mac Crack

climb chimney for about 10m then climb out on to the face on the right side of the crack.

FA: Geofrey knox, 1960

5.6 R Trad
7 Fruit Basket(SNIVEL UP)

follow the flakes left side and traverse out left through cracks and face climbing.

5.10d Trad
8 Fruit of my labor

follow the flakes left side until you can traverse right

5.10d Trad
9 The Flake

follow the flakes right side where you can step out left and up to a bolted station. or continue right to the top of nrfom gear to 2 inches

5.8 Trad 70m
10 new route for old men 5.10c Sport 14m, 8
11 Doodle Bug 5.11b Sport 8
12 Long Hot Summer

MIXED

5.10c Unknown
13 Scott's route 5.8 R Trad
14 One50

Run out and Loose. “RIP”

FA: R Munoz & C Webber, 2017

5.9 Sport 23m, 10
15 Irish Bear 5.9 Sport 23m, 10
16 Stinger / Dreaded brown streak 5.8 Unknown 25m
17 Directissima

MIXED

5.10c Unknown
18 BigMac 5.10a Sport
19 The Zeppelin

Bulgy little blimpy ledges, feels exposed with big run outs

5.8 Sport 30m, 10
20 Friend in my pocket 5.7 Trad
21 Garden Route 5.5 Trad
22 Andy's Here 5.10c Sport 30m
23 Vampire in the Sun

Start at the base of the bulging slab -- a couple of shared bolts with 10c to the left.

Fun climbing on some good holds -- nothing tricky, but the sun can be in your eyes at certain times of the day. Two rap-rings for anchors at the top.

FA: Andy Agopsowics

5.9 Sport 25m, 12
24 the start of dreams 5.8 Unknown
25 nose 5.7 Unknown
26 Little mac crack ( gee wiz ) 5.6 - 8 Unknown

1.2. Cinema 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 BenHur 5.10a Trad
2 Cannis suspendus 5.11c Sport
3 Hound of the baskervilles 5.10a Trad
4 sunset flip 5.10b Unknown
5 from here to eternity 5.10d Unknown
6 nocturnal emission 5.10c Trad
7 Nameless 5.10a Trad
8 mucus plug 5.10b Unknown
9 I am a woman in love 5.11b Unknown
10 true confessions 5.10b Unknown

1.3. summit trail 2 routes in Feature

Summary:
All Bouldering

description

on the far right side you can scramble up to the right then climb up a small ledge to the right walk up hill until you start to see anchors, if you hit the wire you went too far.

1.3.1. one Quarter rock 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dang tree

walk up towards the top half way before the small plateau there will be a boulder on hikers left with dang arbutus in the way. feel free to tie it out of the way but don't hurt it!

VB Boulder

1.3.2. Upper Highball 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

approach

Boulder can be found 20ft below and to the left of the fixed handline rope near the summit

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Up and up exposed

Start on the obvious bulge climb straight up on small techy holds

V1 Boulder

1.4. Far left 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Brave Bear

A bit run out up high.

5.10- Sport 29m, 12
2 Tempest in a teapot Sport
3 Fat In A Hot Thin Roof

Starts with a slab and heads into a shelf under the roof, stay right up and over, then go left up the dyke and finish with a steep climb up the face

Potential for a lot of rope drag (over sharp rocks) bring an alpine sling or two for extension.

Recommend rapping and not lowering.

This route needs to be cleaned! (August 2022)

FA: Allen Agopsowicz, 2020

5.10b Sport 25m, 12

1.5. Salamander 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Questionable rock monkey 5.10b Trad 30m
2 Worlds toughest salamander

Steeper and more technical than it looks. The first crux is at the second bolt and then it's fairly sustained 5.9 to the last bolt. (Look for the jug up right to finish) Make sure your belayer is paying attention. For t/r take the faint trail up and around to the cliff top. Rap to WTS station (just over the edge) from trees.

5.10b Sport 30m, 6
3 Sexgenarian 5.8 Sport 25m

1.6. left 0 routes in Area

1.7. right 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Garden route

FA: Rick eppler & J simpson, 1975

5.5 Trad
2 Into Mordor

FA: R munoz & Allan rice, 2020

5.6 Trad 30m
3 NItty Gritty, Not Whitty

FA: Rafael Munoz & D Nasmith

5.7 Sport 30m
4 Andys Here

FA: Andy Arts & Knut von Salzen, 2010

5.10c Sport 30m
5 Vampire in the sun

FA: Dave Lepard, 2008

5.10a Sport 30m
6 The Start of Dreams

FA: james pierzchalski, 2011

5.8 Sport 30m
7 Nose

FA: cliff syroid & brian boswell, 1976

5.7 Trad 10m
8 Gee Wiz

FA: frank gee, 1976

5.8 Trad 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
VB Dang tree Boulder 1.3.1. one Quarter rock
5.5 Garden Route Trad 1.1. Main Wall
Garden route Trad 1.7. right
5.6 Into Mordor Trad 30m 1.7. right
5.6 R Mac Crack Trad 1.1. Main Wall
5.7 Friend in my pocket Trad 1.1. Main Wall
nose Unknown 1.1. Main Wall
NItty Gritty, Not Whitty Sport 30m 1.7. right
Nose Trad 10m 1.7. right
5.6 - 8 Little mac crack ( gee wiz ) Unknown 1.1. Main Wall
5.8 Stinger Unknown 25m 1.1. Main Wall
The Flake Trad 70m 1.1. Main Wall
The Zeppelin Sport 30m, 10 1.1. Main Wall
the start of dreams Unknown 1.1. Main Wall
Sexgenarian Sport 25m 1.5. Salamander
Gee Wiz Trad 10m 1.7. right
The Start of Dreams Sport 30m 1.7. right
5.8 R Scott's route Trad 1.1. Main Wall
5.9 Dark energy 5.9 Trad 1.1. Main Wall
Irish Bear Sport 23m, 10 1.1. Main Wall
One50 Sport 23m, 10 1.1. Main Wall
Powerline revised Trad 50m 1.1. Main Wall
Vampire in the Sun Sport 25m, 12 1.1. Main Wall
5.10- Brave Bear Sport 29m, 12 1.4. Far left
5.10a BigMac Sport 1.1. Main Wall
BenHur Trad 1.2. Cinema
Hound of the baskervilles Trad 1.2. Cinema
Nameless Trad 1.2. Cinema
Vampire in the sun Sport 30m 1.7. right
5.10b Social Deviant Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
mucus plug Unknown 1.2. Cinema
sunset flip Unknown 1.2. Cinema
true confessions Unknown 1.2. Cinema
Fat In A Hot Thin Roof Sport 25m, 12 1.4. Far left
Questionable rock monkey Trad 30m 1.5. Salamander
Worlds toughest salamander Sport 30m, 6 1.5. Salamander
V1 Up and up exposed Boulder 1.3.2. Upper Highball
5.10c Andy's Here Sport 30m 1.1. Main Wall
Directissima Unknown 1.1. Main Wall
Long Hot Summer Unknown 1.1. Main Wall
new route for old men Sport 14m, 8 1.1. Main Wall
nocturnal emission Trad 1.2. Cinema
Andys Here Sport 30m 1.7. right
5.10d Fruit Basket(SNIVEL UP) Trad 1.1. Main Wall
Fruit of my labor Trad 1.1. Main Wall
from here to eternity Unknown 1.2. Cinema
5.11a Zombie apocalypse Sport 22m, 12 1.1. Main Wall
5.11b Doodle Bug Sport 8 1.1. Main Wall
I am a woman in love Unknown 1.2. Cinema
5.11c Optional Contusion Sport 22m, 12 1.1. Main Wall
Cannis suspendus Sport 1.2. Cinema
? Tempest in a teapot Sport 1.4. Far left
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