Routes in Central Ontario for selected grade

Start up into the corner and try an reach the big triangular jug, then climb up the corner to the top. Beginners usually end up geƫng terrible advice on how to get up this route, as everybody climbs this route very differently.

Start on the left-most crack, eventually switching to another crack further left, up to the ledge 20m up, then up a final crack the last 5m to the (bolted) anchors. (Not a good TR from the anchors, as they are right of most of the route.)

Start up the crack on the right, and continue up the crack system to the top anchors (shared with "Minas Tirith"). As this climb is more directly below the anchors, it is a more comfortable top-rope.

Excellent gear climb, could use some more scrubbing. Start at the right end of the Rolling Stones Area (100m left of the Abbey). Scramble up a couple ledges to easy climbing that lands you under the small roof. Squeeze through the obvious slot in the roof and do a short traverse left to the main crack. Follow the crack to the top. Bolted anchors (2022). Rappel lands you 5 meters to the left of the start of the climb.

For protection, single rack to #5 cam with a double for #4 for comfort.

Around the corner from Walrus - start at the arete, follow the diagonal weakness, once you pass the cedar continue up the thin vertical splitter that guides you all the way up to the ledge beneath the headwall. Bolted anchors (2022). This route eats small gear.

Loose rock and dirty. Start up a few detached blocks behind a cedar to the obvious hand width crack, mount the headwall and continue following the feature nearly to the top, straying slightly left at the easy 5th class top. Gear double rack is adequate, triples of 0.75-2 could all be placed. Your choice of pine for anchor. Double rope rappel or gully walk off to climbers right.

Second route to the left of the large gully that is the Dirty Hairy ice climb in winter, is a pleasant & well bolted prow. This climb roughly follows an old 5.6 trad line, and remains an excellent climb for beginner trad with the security of bolts if desired.

Start 4m right of Dude, I Think She is the King.

P1 (27 m, 5.7 trad): Climb the obvious weakness on gear trending left past shrubs to a corner with a pin in it. Climb above the leaning cedar to a bolted belay.

P2 (25 m, 5.8 sport, 10 bolts): Continue up, following a nice hand crack through a small bulge, past a fist crack to a bolted belay. Bolts added in 2018 rendering this second pitch a sport route. Bolts are very close together. What was once a slightly runout but fabulous 5.8 mixed route is now super “safe”.

Start as for Balk and Chalk but climb straight up on big holds through a well protected right facing crack onto runout easier slab above. Head straight up to FIXE rings at the anchor. Gear to 4"

Located 10m right of Spine of the Dragon. P1: Climb the blocky, black and grey streaked corner. Pull the roof to the belay station at the tree - anchors on the left (5.8, 15m). P2: Climb the steep flaring groove and traverse right across a cracked slab to the off-width base of the giant flake. Climb the offwidth crack and continue up the large easier flake to an anchor (5.8, 35m). Rappel to the new anchors some distance above the ledge and again to the ground. The anchor at the ledge is rusty. Bring doubles of large gear to 6".

Start 5m right of Face Climb at the chimney-like corner.

P1 (10m, 5.8): Climb up past a piton and bolt to a large ledge, to shared anchor with Face Climb.

P2 (35m, 5.8+): Climb up the namesake crack and through a tricky face climb. Continue through the easier climbing past your rappel station, and eventually follow the thin diagonal crack up left, gain small roof, and into a larger crack leading to finish with Stairway to Heaven. Old school 5.8 grade.

(Spectre M5)

Two well-situated pitons on this route which aren't necessary as there is plenty of room for gear. There is also a loose handhold towards the top but it is wedged in and unable to be removed. Brown painted chain-ring anchor. Gear single rack #0.3-1 cams.

Wafer Area.

Excellent slab up the center to the heart shaped face that finishes in the notch. For a fun V1 variation, avoid the large diagonal crack and stay left on the upper section.

Sit start, both hands on the good arête hold, enjoyable climbing to the top.

Obvious easiest way up and down.

Same start as Milk and Cereal, continue straight up the juggy slab.

Start between the trees and head up the easy face, left around the top bulge.

Obvious easy climb on the backside of the Beach facing Dino Boulder.

Start the same as Bear Ass, use the good foot on the chunk of rock to the left to dino up to the top of the face on your left.

Start as close to the water as you can and work through the cracks to the top

Fun if you try and stay in the crack only

Roughly 10m to the right of Moose knuckle. Climb straight up the slab to the overhang, top out to the right.

Fun little slab to start the day on. Not much of a fall zone so it best not to.

Use tree to tope rope this smooth slab.

Give the moss a hug. Small holds. Dirty but alright

Sit start and enjoy cool jugs on the left hand

Reach up with your right hand. Fun move

A variation of 'Naughty and Nice'