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Alice Boulder

  • Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 10-15mins
  • Ascents: 7

Seasonality

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Description

Alice boulder is a granite boulder of excellent rock about a 15 min drive from Petawawa. Bring bug spray!

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Approach

Grid: 18 TUR 14416 66422 A new trail was cut out as of 2020: Park at the close side of Alice roadside on the north side of the road and walk down the road east(roughly 200m) until you find a single large fallen branch with a small cairn in front of it, from there you should see the clearly marked orange marking tape path (crash mat friendly-ish). Follow orange marking tape into the bush until you come to an old overgrown ATV trail. Follow ATV trail east (following the marking tape throughout) until you come to a fork in the ATV trail. Keep your eyes out for a bunch of fallen trees creating an entrance into the bush again heading north, north east. Keep following the orange marking tape and you will start to see the boulder.

History

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It was developed by a group of Outdoor Adventure students from Algonquin College. As of summer 2020, the boulder could use some TLC: bring a brush!

Routes

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Grade Route

Far left side of the south side face. Solid holds and a final layback with little feet just right of the arête, then top out

Climb the blank to the right of Alice in Wonderland, using what you can between problems 1 and 3. Stick to the middle

Climb the juggy side pulls/underclings with marginal feet to the top

To the right of The Rabbit, climb the reddish corner to start then move your way up marginal holds to a slabby finish

Sit start, climb the far right arête, slapping your way up. Fun holds all over

On the north side, climb just left of the right arête to a really bad set of side pulls and underclings. Proceed onto the face, gunning for the ledge underneath the top block. Finish up the block and top out.

Left of Rabbit Hole. Super good hard route potential up the face. Climb to the undercling and then work the face

On climbers left of “Alice in wonderland’s” arète, follow the slabby wall using the big jugs and a nice flake to top out or descend with ease.

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Activity

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