Directions in Google Maps
Access is questionable, at best. The current phrasing on the NCC website is to list only the sections of the park where climbing is open, and this is not listed.
Starting in the hole. I would avoid falling if I was you
FA: Jean-Claude Savard
Same start as GeoBloc,start low with a good sidepull, reach the arete and top in prismatik while avoiding the holds on the left (Eliminate).
Starting low with the obvious sidepull feature, reach up for the good holds !!
A really nice looking boulder. Sit start underneath the roof, climb directly !!
There's 2 other v0 on the left side of this boulder. Need a proper cleaning for the topout tho.
Nice little problem on the right of "Allo" . Start at the bottom right and make your way up the arrete on the right, using hold on both sides of it. Be careful for topout.
Set by David Martin & Julien Lzn, 4 Nov 2018
FA: Julien Lzn, 4 Nov 2018
Mini boulder. Sit start matched on a big flack.
Mini boulder good for warmup.
A good warmup follows the back of Canine boulder. Add some spicyness by topping after the corner.
Sit start matching the lip. Traverse all the way up.
A two move boulder to test your compression and your sit start hehey. Start with 2 sharp underclings.
At the base of the slab, you'll find a left crimp and a good right sidepull to start. Sit
Left hand on the arete, right hand on a pinch. Avoid using the detached rock on the left.
Pretty obvious line
Cool first move and top out.
This is a huge highball slab. Numerous lines are possible here. I've climb the most obvious line starting in the massive jugs.
Sit start in front of the boulder. You'll find a good pocket hold for your left and a shelf for you right hand. Reach the right side and follow the beautiful line. V5 : Eliminate the detached rock at the bottom for your feet. Adds a lot.
2 directs lines are possible
An excellent line on Squamish style crystals. Start at the bottom left of the boulder, matched on a huge shelf. Traverse right and top out to the left of the tree.
Sit. Left hand of your choice, right hand on an obvious shelf.
Start underneath the boulder with 2 good holds. Top at the end of the slab. Don't fall.
Huge boulder with plenty of lines. Holds everywhere.
Sit start in front of the arete and reach up.
Located on the right side of "Le Double Menton".
SDS start. Left hand on sloper in wide horizontal crack and right hand in crimp located lower in the veritcal crack on your right. Put feet anywhere on tiny crystals. Match right hand on sloper and then grab edge of horizontal crack with left hand. Follow the crack until topout.
Set by David Martin & flippintrippin, 14 Oct 2018
Wide compression start.
You'll find a jug for your right hand. Pinch the arete for your left.
One of the best line of the whole park.
See the full beta here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSMSN1fnzGo
Starts to the right and finishes in ''Fer Forgé''.
FA: Rafael Martin, 18 Apr
A variation of Fer Forgé that skips the two crux move by traversing right. Still quite hard and delicate. Definitely worth doing.
In the quarry behind Fer Forgé. Low start on good hold and huge move to a 2 finger hold.
Start left of 'Le Pinch à Toivo' on a left hand gaston and a right hand mini-pinch. Traverse right to the crimp and and pinch and stick the low-percentage move! A line worth trying. Beta: https://youtu.be/2qLiHlhlXAA
FA: Rafael Martin, Apr 2020
Hard start into easy climbing. Sds looks possible
Very low start on the big rock that doesn't look climbable. The crux is the first move. Beta : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYiGhYgvWY8
Left hand on a edge at the right side of the crack and left hand on a side pull. Traverse the crack and top out in front of the tree.
Just in front of the tree, left hand on lowest edge and right hang on side pull. Go directly up.
The lip of the blackwall project. Start high on a rock and make your way to the apex of the wall. Somewhat spooky
Start matched on the ledge, go directly up to the small crimp. Top out TBT.
Sit-down start both hands on lower rail then follow line until top out. Located in the quarry left of the black wall. Fun Warm-up!
Start on the 2 mini-crimps and traverse left to the end of 'la fonderie'. Your fingers will probably hurt after trying it. The grade is still uncertain. Beta : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqxFKLoVoY4
FA: Rafael Martin, May 2020
Start on the jug and finish on the jug. Easy right? Not really. You have to traverse left to a hard 3-move crux before topping out. Individual moves are not impossible, but definitely a double-digit climb.
SDS underneath the boulder on the big shelf. A little dirty and spicy.
Start start as the v4 but traverse a few move to the left on the seam before toping out.
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