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Access: Closed during hunting season. September 30 to October 15, 2023

This is very important as the owner has threatened to shut down the access if this is not respected. Please cooperate.

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Created 2 years ago - Edited 6 months ago
1 5.7
2 5.9
3 5.9
4 5.9 PG13
5 5.8

description

It is one of the most popular routes on the face for its relatively accessible grade. The climb meanders through the easiest terrain to reach the summit of the main facade. The PG rating comes from a few harder-to-protect traverses, meaning the follower will also have to take this into consideration. Offers a real route-finding challenge as well as some exhilarating exposure through different styles of climbing. You will find many fixed pitons (hence the name) that should not be used. They are not safe to clip and should be left untouched for historical reasons.

Getting there

*From the parking lot, follow the trail to the spinal board. Make a left and follow fixed ropes to the start of the climb (which seems underwhelming).

*It is also possible to either follow fixed ropes on the left side of the gully or climb 'Transcanadienne' to reach the beginning of pitch 3.

Visual topo: https://fqme.qc.ca/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Illus_Secteur_gauche_FR.pdf

Climbing

  1. 5.7+ 20m: Climb broken corners and cracks meandering your way up to the trees. Belay from the edge or build a tree anchor a little further. Follow fixed ropes left, along the base of the cliff to a small dihedral.

  2. 5.9+ 30m: Anchor your belayer to a tree, mantle on the obvious ledge, and climb the small dihedral to a few horizontal cracks. Once you reach a dirt ledge with a bolted anchor.

  3. 5.9+ 30m: Start with a few technical moves (5.9+) protected by bolts to reach a rocky plateau. Some will opt to build an anchor here to reduce rope drag. From there, a few layback moves will land you standing on a thin ledge. Traverse right from there (the bolt is used for 'Purgatoire' and clipping it will leave your follower to downclimb a technical move while exposed to a nasty pendulum. After the traverse, a technical high step will lead you to follow an easy ramp under a roof. Either follow the ramp to the arete created by the smooth dihedral or overcome the small roof to follow broken cracks to the same bolted anchor.

Variant: If you'd rather jam cracks than crimp small holds, walk right along the base of the cliff to find a nice (5.9+) crack that merges back with the original pitch right after the traverse.

  1. 5.9+ 30m: Climb onto the ramp, past two bolts, and follow it to the left. Make a downclimb bypass once forced to and re-establish on a slab with little protection. The traverse then offers great exposure when going around a corner. Bolted anchor.

  2. 5.8 30m: The money pitch! Enjoy pure crack climbing with great protection.

Descent
2x 60m+ ropes required

The rappels are big wall style and should not be underestimated.

  1. 20m: Start with a small rappel down just passed the trees to a bolted anchor.

  2. 50m: Rappel down and pendulum right to reach the smooth dihedral bolted anchor.

  3. 60m: Rappel straight down passed a ledge to the fixed line between P1 and P2. If worried about your ropes getting stuck, it is possible to stop at the ledge and walk left to the end of P2.

Route history

2010First ascent: Louis-Pierre Tessier & Frédérick Desgranges

Warnings

2 Sep 2021 Warning Access: Closed during hunting season. September 30 to October 15, 2023

Location

Lat/Lon: 47.12765, -71.88125

Grade citation

5.7+,5.9+,5.9+,5.9+ PG13, 5.8 Assigned grade

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67 from 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1
Tick 1

Comment keywords

fun

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