★★★ Les Grand Galets 5.12d

Probably the most popular route on the legendary Cap Trinité. Appart from the first pitch, the route is completely stellar and offers some of Quebec's best granite. Weather it is in the form of a hard free ascent, or and epic aid undertaking, the wall will find a way to challenge you.

P1 - 5.8 - 50m: Cannot be fully aided. Up and slightly right of the flat area below the climb. Start under a small birch tree sitting 10m off the deck. Negotiate your way around it. Make your way through various ledges to an old piton anchor. Climb the slabby layback corner to find modern anchors on a relatively spacious ledge. 5 bolts. Decent for setting up camp.

P2 - 5.9 C2+ or 5.12d - 35m: Climb the stellar corner through a slightly overhang protecting with small gear (BD#0.1-#0.2). Keep going passed an old anchor with one modern bolt. Once passed the small roof, follow a thin hands crack to another anchor made of an old piton, a nut and a bolt. Use this to pendulum over to the left and reach the angled ledge or reach left for a hidden hold allowing passage onto the left-facing corner. 2 bolt.

P3 - C1 or 5.10a: Most often climbed clean, this nice thin hands crack will leave you wanting more. If it were on the ground, this pitch would be a classic climb in itself. Beware of loose flakes and rocks near the end of the pitch. 8 bolt anchor. This is usually referred to as "the hole" and is generally used as a basecamp. Fits two ledges easily. This is also where "Espresso" splits off.

P4 - C2 or 5.12a: Climb the right face, passing a historic wooden peg, to a couple old of pins (crux) used to traverse the roof, reaching your first "grand galet". Keep going up the obvious crack to a 2 bolt hanging belay.

P5 - C2 or 5.11d: Referred to as the enduro corner of Quebec, climb the closed corner, stemming and jamming your way to an (uncomfortable) 2-bolt anchor.

P6 - C1 or 5.12c: Follow the main crack feature, keeping left until you reach hidden a 4 bolt anchor in a cave just below the rooves.

P7 - C2+ or 5.12b: Make use of an old piton to reach a bolt and follow the arching crack to a roof traverse. Very short pitch. 2 bolt anchor.

P8 - C2 or 5.12a: Follow the overhung dihedral on your left (crux), avoiding the last roof and climb up the last corner, into a chimney feature to reach the top anchors. This pitch is much dirtier than the rest.

Fixed ropes will lead you to the summit trail, from which you could walk back down or to your car if you were doing the climb in a push.

Rappeling the route is usually preferred though. Sigle rope raps are advised for the first two rappels (pendulum required), from there many strategies are viable. From the P2 anchor, you can reach the ground in one 75m long rappel or downclimb easy terrain if using a 70m setup.