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Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth

  • Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 10 min
  • Ascents: 159

Seasonality

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Summary

Follow the signs towards Quercus. Before you get there commonwealth is a fissured slabby wall to the right of the track and Lakeside in the woods is to the left of the track.

Description

Easy trad climbs at Commonwealth

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Prepare for a devious crux on slopers

FA: Brad Richie, 2006

A bouldery start leads to a high, slabby crux

FA: Brad Richie, 2006

Layback up the massive fin-shaped flake

FA: Brad Richie, 2006

Ascend a short, bolted arête on the left side of the gully. Steep and tricky to on-sight

FA: Brad Richie, 2006

Stem and palm widely across the gully

FA: Brad Richie, 2006

FA: Brad Richie, 2006

Start by scrambling up and under a small roof. Bouldery start to a deep crack running up diagonally to the right. Save some juice for the end.

FA: Colin Moorhead, 2012

Up The Burglar to the rest then straight up the crimpy headwall.

FA: Emilisa Frirdich, 2012

This tall face requires good technique. Quality.

Set by Colin Moorhead & John Rosholt, 1997

Climb the first of the three smooth, right-leaning cracklines on the slick wall to the right. This one is dirty

FA: Colin Moorhead & Damien Kelly, 1997

The most striking line on the face follows an obvious diagonal weakness. It protects well, but is challenging to on-sight.

Set by John Rosholt, 1997

The thin seam on the right is more bouldery but less sustained than its left-hand neighbour. The crux is low. Quality!

FA: Andrew Boyd, 1998

FA: Ben Harnden, 2012

Climb The Gunslinger to the top of the corner then hand traverse right.

FA: Jeremy Smith, 2013

Climb a very deep right-facing corner to a chimney up high. Good quality and easier than it looks.

Set by Colin Moorhead & Damien Kelly, 1997

Gear to 4" or 5", starts just right of Reacharound

FA: Chris Small

The big flake next to reacharound

FA: Chris Small

Up the middle of the big flake next to the reacharound

FA: Chris Small

FA: Chris Small

FA: Chris Small

Cams to .75

FA: Chris Small

Move between intermittent seams with heady run-outs

The climbs after this point are on the Commonwealth

The left most route at Commonwealth

Start from the second landing, go up some rough rock to cracks, angle leftwards at some point to follow a hand-crack to the right of a small arete then finish left to share anchors with "Otto Mattock".

Up the left side of a square recess at mid height, then past 2 bolts

FFA: (Kevin Henshaw & Chris Small, 2012

Climb the right facing corner and traverse left to finish on Rick's Root.

Left facing corner through small roof then fingertips o narrow hand crack. Continue past the first bolts over the overhang for a 10c finish.

Starts up a wide crack, but doesn't stay that way.

Through low overlap then up thin crack

Up a broken crack to a ledge, then up from there.

Climb up to a wide crack that pulls through a roof, then joins "Smells Like Fir" to finish.

Climb the right-facing dihedral.

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