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Parking Lot Wall Mostly Trad climbing 15 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 76
15
YDS
5.45.65.75.85.95.10a

Seasonality

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Description

An easily accessible set of easy cracks, top available for TRs, and bolted anchors.

Access issues inherited from Smoke Bluffs

Some cliffs are on private land, and closed. Others are close to private homes -- please keep the noise level down near homes, and do not anchor off fences, hydro towers, or anything else that is similar.

Approach

Park in the north end of the lot, climb out of your car, you're there.

History

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Opened in early 2018 by Aaron Kristiansen, with development help from Scott Macpherson and Cameron Hunt.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1
5.4 Tickled Pink Trad 8m

See topo at base of crag.

2
5.4 Jiminy Cricket Trad 8m
3
5.6 No Bleach Required Trad 8m
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4
5.8 ★ Hug Mixed trad 10m, 2

Left end of the wall; bolts to a horizontal crack to steep gear-protected face.

FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017

5
5.6 ★ Kiss Trad 10m

Left-most crack/double-crack. Leads to anchor for Snuggle.

FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017

6
5.6 Snuggle Trad 10m

Middle crack of the lower triple.

FA: A. Kristiansen & S. Macpherson, 2017

7
5.6 Grr Trad 10m

Right-most of the three cracks that start at the lower base.

FA: A. Kristiansen & C. Hunt, 2017

8
5.8 ★ Pole Mixed trad 2

Starts from the left end of a small ledge. Bolts & gear up a face.

FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017

9
5.7 ★ Miss Five Trad 10m

Dog leg crack.

FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017

10
5.6 ★ Definitely not the Dawn Wall Trad 10m

Hand Crack, crosses "Miss Five" near the top.

FA: C. Hunt

11
5.10a ★★ Bed time Sport 10m

Bolted face, optional gear near the start.

FA: A. Kristiansen & C. Hunt, 2017

12
5.10b My Beautiful Brittany Sport 10m, 7

Squeezed between Bed Time and Baby Teddy.

13
5.8 ★★ Baby Teddy Trad 12m

Left-leaning crack to bolts near topp.

FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017

14
5.8 ★★★ Owl Teddy Trad

Hands & fists.

FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017

15
(unknown) Mixed trad 1

Face with iffy gear, bolt near top.

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5.8 ★★★ Owl Teddy

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