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North Apron

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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Kris Wild, 2014

The last two pitches of Long Time no See can be used to climb from the top any North Apron route to above Memorial Ledge. Start at two bolts at the scramble below Memorial, just to the left of Karen's math start.

1 5.9 25m
2 5.8 55m

Direct start for Calculus Crack so you don't have to start in the trees on the first two pitches of St. vitus Dance.

P1: Start up passing a bolt and head toward an obvious left facing crack. Pull into the crack (crux) and continue up insecure moves to you can step right and up a flake. Gear Belay above the flake.

P2: Long pitch starting up multiple flakes and continuing on easy ground to some flaring crack moves near the top. Bolted belay.

This pitch is the easiest way to start any climb on the North Apron. It is mostly steep tree climbing, with a few moves in a crack.

From the top of the pitch, there are now 4 options to get to Baseline ledge, listed from left to right:

  1. South Arete p2 (5.8)

  2. Ha7lh Skwalwen (10.a)

  3. St. Bernard p1 (5.9)

  4. St. Vitus Direct (5.10a)

In order to arrive at Baseline ledge (and access St. Vitus, South Arete, etc.), one has to climb two marginal pitches in the trees.

This pitch (the first pitch of St. Bernard), offers a better variation to the second pitch in the trees. It is the obvious hand crack that starts above a stump.

1 5.7
2 5.8
3 5.6
4 5.8
5 5.7
6 5.0

First two pitches can be done through the trees if starting on the right hand side or do Calculus Direct and start in Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack route;

  1. Start as for St Vitus' Dance to tree belay in ledge

  2. Keep going up through the trees with a hard move right of the ledge 3)Step left into two bolt anchor so you get belayed with no rope drag, and follow the double crag until gets steep, step left and build gear belay small ledge at the start of finger crack, long pitch 50m

  3. Climb the finger crack with solid finger locks and solid gear, a few more meters of easier climbing and build belay at start of next steep ramp

  4. Continue up the crag and keep going up until the angle eases into an easy slab and angle right to a two bolt belay 6)Keep going up through easy terrain to the ledge, we did it unroped or possible to combine with previous pitch just continue going up until you reach the trees and memorial ledge

1 5.9
2 5.8
3 5.8

Approach: Climb the standard approach pitch of "St. Vitus' Dance" to lower Baseline Ledge.

  1. step off the cut stump and climb the hand crack to its top then transition left to gain Baseline Ledge

  2. climb the cracks left "St. Vitus' Dance" to gain a bolted anchor

  3. climb up through short cracks and pods to gain a foot ledge, transition right to gain pitch-three of "St. Vitus' Dance"

  4. Finish "St. Vitus' Dance".

Gear: Rack to 4 inches. Double hand sizes.

Source Squamish Facebook page

FA: Aaron Kristiansen & Cameron Hunt, 16 Mar

p1: climb the long, 50m crack above Baseline ledge, starting just to the right of St. Vitus' Dance. Belay off of one bolt and a #1,#2, or #3 BD. (5.8)

p2: Step right to access a very nice corner that is quite obvious from the Apron parking lot. (10c) At the top, step left and gear belay on St. Vitus' Dance. This is a variation to Vector -- the original line, at 5.9, goes straight up dirty cracks above the first pitch.

p3-p4: Climb the last pitches of St. Vitus' Dance. With a 70m, one can link these pitches and reach the trees.

1 5.11d 45m
2 5.11c 28m

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