Black and White/Club Sandwich




The main, huge, south-facing wall that is most visible, and best documented, at the Weir.

Access issues inherited from Weir

The land is owned by Teleglobe Canada (now Tata Communications?), please do nothing that might cause them to remove permission to climb.

The climbing is managed/insured by the FQME (, you should be a member to climb here.


Start up the hiking trail at the left end of the parking area, then follow the signs for this sector.

Follow these trails until you cross a stream and head up again towards the cliff where there is a huge corner between the large, south-facing part of the cliff and a more south-west facing section. This is the large steep cliff facing directly towards you. The large, obvious, top-bottom right-leaning crack system is Black and White.

Descent notes

Depending on how far along the cliff, either descend the gully beside Adagio, or hike climbers right to the end of the cliff and descent that way.


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Grade Route

Direct start for 'Bicentenaire' or 'Promenade sur Mars'.

Variant finish for 'Bicentenaire'.

One of the hardest trad routes in the Laurentians.

The obvious slightly right-leaning long crack that goes up the main face of the cliff from bottom to top.

First two pitches are bolted, third pitch is mixed.

A variation on 'Romania'.

First pitch is bolted, and often just that pitch is climbed as a sport route.

First ascent : Gelu Ionescu (

First ascent : Gelu Ionescu (

The route was pioneered by Bob Cartwright in the early 90s. At the time he made the first ascent at A3, he claimed the route could go free. "Fun with a Gun" had a few contenders over the years, but it took almost 30 years before someone redpoint it.

Start right of the anchor and climb a short left facing corner (0.1/0.2 BD X4) to a tricky mantle onto a good foot hold to reach the main seam. Place some gear and mantle to a shallow ledge underneath a blank section capped with a few overlaps. Place a bomber finger size cam plus a critical sideway nut a foot above it (#4 BD Stopper) and get ready for the first crux. This next section is a little scary and involves very technical climbing on unusual features. So, battle up this section to a very good hold and place a tiny wire plus a micro cam (0 BD Z4). Mantle onto that good hold to a good left gaston. Place crappy gear in the tiny flake above your head. There is also a good but blindly placed red ballnut in the seam to your right. Now its time for "THE HIGH STEP" which is kind of crux 1.5 and feels like your gonna slip. Do that move and then reach some thanks god gear placements (0.4-0.5 BD C4) and a good rest right underneath the main crux.

Place a good micro cam in the seam, clip the manky piton nest and go for it using compression moves, sloppy holds, a heel hook, a rose move and more sloppy holds to finally reach a jug. Reestablish yourself above the crux and place a good cam (0.75 BD C4). Compose yourself and climb an easier section until you reach "THE HEINOUS FINGERLOCK", then climb the roof to a no-hand rest at the horizontal with good gear. Take a few good breath and get ready for the headwall. Climb to the bolt and clip it, or not, then fire the pumpy upper section. There are a few available RP's but they are quite strenuous to place.

LOCATION The route follows a system of seem for its entire length. It starts on the spacious ledge to the right of the Marie 4 Poche/Cordonnier buttress. Start about 40 ft right of the Cordonnier corner.

FA: Bob Cartwright, 1993

FFA: stmicheljerome, 1 Jun

Club Sandwich climbs a series of ramps and ledges along the right-most section of the cliff.

Start at a small triangular cave (harder, but with protection) or a couple meters left on some moderate holds (easier, but poorly protected).

  1. Climb up the corner with intermittent crack to the first large ledge, then step left to a double-bolt anchor.

  2. Step back right along the ledge to the ramp with the wide corner along its left edge. Up this (large gear needed if not willing to run-out 8m+, C4 #4 not big enough) over and between a huge detached block and the main cliff to a second wide ledge with double-bolt anchor.

  3. Walk right along the ledge, around the corner, do one move where the ledge gets thin, then continue walking right along the ledge behind a block, to a one bolt-anchor (back up with gear in dirty crack at base of ledge).

  4. Continue right from anchor, and up the final wall where the ledge ends.

From the top anchor, due a single-rope rappel to the talus field, then descend the talus field, initially going skiers-left to avoid a small cliff band.

The climb is never more than a single-rope rappel above the ground, so can be escaped from at any point.

Climbs cracks to dihedrals, starting a little bit right (and up) from the start of "Club Sandwich". Look for the first line of bolts (though it is mixed) right of "Club Sandwich".

Starts part way along the long shelf traverse of "Club Sandwich".

Starts part way along the long shelf traverse of "Club Sandwich".

First ascent : Gelu Ionescu ( and Ghita Pop

As the talus field ascends rightwards along the main cliff, there is a short wall in it at right angle to the main cliff, with an obvious wide crack in it. The following climbs are on this small wall.

An obvious short vertical off-width in the side cliff.

Can be top-roped off trees above by hiking up and around to the right -- bring long webbing.

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