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阳朔 Yangshuo

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Description

Yangshuo town is located near the city of Guilin, Guanxi Province, southern China. The area is a major tourist destination and has become famous around the world with climbers because of its limestone Karst formations. With 800 sport routes the area has become the most popular climbing destination in China.

https://rakkup.com/guidebook/yangshuo-rock-climbing

WHEN TO CLIMB: The prime climbing season is mid-October through mid-December when the chances of dry weather and good temps is the best. There is a secondary climbing season around April, but succumbs to a bit of wet weather. June is usually the center of the wet season and August usually the most humid and hot.

Sometimes the climbing season will start a little early, end of September, or run long way into January. The weather in South China changes yearly...and so the above seasons are a historical average.

HOW TO GET THERE: The best way to reach Yangshuo is to fly internationally to a major chinese city. Guangzhou is the closest. Then fly domestically into Guilin. From the airport, catch a shuttle bus or taxi to yangshuo..carpooling will obviously save some cash.

Alternatively, if your timing is good and not afraid of a travelers adventure...From most major cities, but more conveniently Shenzhen or Guangzhou, you can get a high speed train to arrive in Guilin. Price is similar to airfare but convenience and comfort may be worth it. From the above 2 cities, try to go directly to the Yangshuo train station. Other cities need to go to Guilin.

If you arrive in Guilin city on the Train....It is ideal to arrive at Guilin staton, not Guilin North or West as they tend to be further from the city center and don't offer the shuttle bus service to Yangshuo. However, it is still possible to get to Yangshuo but requires public transport to the guilin south bus station or a taxi.

From Guangzhou Baiyan Airport it takes about 1.5 hours to arrive at the Guangzhou South Railway Station. best to purchase train tickets from www.ctrip.com before you arrive in china.

WHAT GEAR TO BRING: you are a traveler and want to take the least amount of weight possible, so it is recommended to bring a 70m rope and 16 quickdraws to access 95% of the routes. If you climb in the upper grades (~8a), an 80m rope is worthwhile. A 60m rope will allow you to climb about 70% of the routes.

LOCAL TRANSPORTATION: The best way to reach the crag is either by scooter or ebike. If you're fit enough and love cycling, a push bike is good. 95% of crags are within 15km of town center.

Keep in mind that an ebike is much cheaper (25/30RMB a day) and lighter than a scooter (70RMB+ a day), but it cannot go as far nor as fast. It is highly recommended to either use the map in the new guidebook or purchase the Digital Guide from Rakkup with a GPS navigation system.

If you are staying long term, consider buying a scooter second hand....a quality ride is about 800-1500rmb.

ADVICE AND TIPS: >>> Stay connected. WeChat is your lifeline. For many Chinese locals, this is how they do business and the best way to network with other climbers. This is particularly useful if you are travelling solo.

To successfully get WeChat, you must have a number and a Chinese local verify your identity. Make friends fast!

To get a Chinese number, you must have your passport with you and visit any of the local companies like China Unicomm. Generally there are no 30 day plans, only long term ones. You MUST cancel your simcard before you leave Yangshuo, or you will be put on a blacklist and will not be permitted to obtain another one if you return to China.

>>> Facebook, Instagram and Google are blocked in China. Luckily, there is a way around this by ordering a simcard from SimsDirect. These plans do have a limit of 30 days et cetera, but they are only for the internet, a number does not generally come with it. Consider getting one before leaving, so then you can access the internet just in case you get lost.

>>> Finding the crags can be quite hard. Generally roads are not marked and finding the approach happens via eye/memory, as there are many villages/houses that you pass. For some areas, the roads have completely changed due to construction.

Ideally, it is best to network with local climbers or those who know the way to the crag. Heading to Rusty Bolt, a bar for foreigners is a good place to start, as it is considered a climber's hangout.

Google Maps/maps.me was not too useful, and reading the map provided in the guidebook tended to be alot better. Recognise when the book distinguishes between a dirt road and a paved road. Osm.org map is helpful. Once again... the best way to navigate is by using Rakkup's digital guide and the GPS navigation system.

https://rakkup.com/guidebook/yangshuo-rock-climbing

Access issues

Be aware: about 60% of the climbing occurs in a "scenic tourist park". As long as you travel by motorbike or bicycle the 100rmb entrance fee is not required. You will learn about this in the first few days in Yangshuo. It doesn't really concern climbers, but is pertinent info...especially when considering a taxi during inclement weather.

All of the land belongs to the Chinese government and has been appropriated to respective farming villages. Each crag and it's access is then controlled by either the village collectively or a specific person, so technically we as climbers are trespassing 95% of the time in China. However, most villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. On the contrary, certain crags have historically had issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Where to stay

There are many hostels to stay at in Yangshuo. If you have not found a suitable hostel before your arrival, have no fear... they are a dime a dozen with mostly similar amenities and price. don't be afraid to find a quick place for a few days, meet some others climbers, get the lay of the land, then switch to a more suitable location.

There are places downtown near food and bars, there are quiet places in the countryside. There are places on the edge of town, places with kitchenettes, and places that include food or homestay. its all possible in yangshuo including longterm (3 month) rental.

A basic dorm room hostel can be found for about 50rmb a night. A month long simple room hotel can be about 600rmb/month. If you want a kitchenette or an apartment...you'll pay more, but no more than 1200rmb/month.

Ethic

Climbing in China is similar to Korea, whereas the most popular crags can get crowded during the busy seasons. its not uncommon to find ropes hanging on many routes that at the moment are not being used. Or for for certain areas to "feel" overused with lots of people hanging around, with music, and lots of good vibes. Please wear a smile, be patient, make conversation and be polite. If there are any safety issues, speak up...the chinese, and hopefully all climbers, welcome professional instruction.

New routing is acceptable. Please please do not squeeze routes in-between others, nor hap-hazardly add routes. The overall climbing experience of the chinese community is at a novice level. It is very important to develop SAFE routes that are thoroughly cleaned. IF you have a question about adding an additional bolt...DO IT!! Also..It would be wise to find a local guru before developing and ask for some local tips. Thank You.

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