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Baby Frog Buttress

  • Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 5
  • Ascents: 347
  • Aka: 蝌蚪山

Seasonality

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Summary

Excellent crag with a stack of low to mid range graded climbs from 5 - 6b+.

Description

Baby Frog is a pleasant cliff located directly behind a small village near the Yu Long river. The crag offers single pitch routes graded between 5.7 and 5.11a, so it’s a great spot for climbing at the lower grades. The cliff faces south east and is shaded in the morning until around 1pm.

Access issues

The crag is under contract by the guiding outfit near White Cliff. No worries, as long as you aren't taking customers to this crag everything should be fine.

Ethic inherited from Yangshuo

Climbing in China is similar to Korea, whereas the most popular crags can get crowded during the busy seasons. its not uncommon to find ropes hanging on many routes that at the moment are not being used. Or for for certain areas to "feel" overused with lots of people hanging around, with music, and lots of good vibes. Please wear a smile, be patient, make conversation and be polite. If there are any safety issues, speak up...the chinese, and hopefully all climbers, welcome professional instruction.

New routing is acceptable. Please please do not squeeze routes in-between others, nor hap-hazardly add routes. The overall climbing experience of the chinese community is at a novice level. It is very important to develop SAFE routes that are thoroughly cleaned. IF you have a question about adding an additional bolt...DO IT!! Also..It would be wise to find a local guru before developing and ask for some local tips. Thank You.

History

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Around 2012 all the hangers and anchor hardware was removed from the crag, then replaced shortly afterward. There could be several bolts with loose nuts and hangers.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Good Climb but short. position on tufa is excellent for such an easy route. If you climb it on the face... the grade should be easier.

Long and Good. small holds

FA: Joe Langwald & Jeff White, 2005

maybe the best route for first time climbers anywhere in the world.

FA: Angela Carlin & Hotrocks, 2004

Worth a shot... kind of punches you in the face, exactly like when you realize your friend is lying to you.

FA: TonTon, Paul Collis & ChinaClimb, 2008

hard for the grade, but totally worth it. The tufa up high stays wet longer than usual.

Crap route or at least kind of scary. careful... could be missing a couple hangers. The route doesnt climb the beautiful upper wall, instead it climbs the massive crack on the right.

Magnifique

Really? a trad route at this crag?

super fun and not difficult with varied climbing

FA: Paul Collis & Echo Wu, 2004

FA: 2004

NOT worth it! anchor is in bad position with a bunch of rope drag. hard deadpoint in otherwise ok climbing.

lead-it or scramble up through the worm hole to set a top rope. On the Pilar to the right of the crag.

FA: Simon Wilson, 2005

lead-it or scramble up through the worm hole to set a top rope. On the Pilar to the right of the crag.

FA: Simon Wilson

Information needed

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