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Banyan Tree

  • Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 5
  • Ascents: 210
  • Aka: 大榕树

Seasonality

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Description

The Banyan Tree Crag is pleasant and located across the river from the touristy and real Banyan Tree Scenic Area. The climbing is on two sides of a large buttress.

Access issues inherited from Yangshuo

Be aware: about 60% of the climbing occurs in a "scenic tourist park". As long as you travel by motorbike or bicycle the 100rmb entrance fee is not required. You will learn about this in the first few days in Yangshuo. It doesn't really concern climbers, but is pertinent info...especially when considering a taxi during inclement weather.

All of the land belongs to the Chinese government and has been appropriated to respective farming villages. Each crag and it's access is then controlled by either the village collectively or a specific person, so technically we as climbers are trespassing 95% of the time in China. However, most villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. On the contrary, certain crags have historically had issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Approach

From the main road, cross the river by way of a low weir and continue into the village. take a left and go around the karst tower in front of you. after 150m look for a few houses on the left and a steep bamboo covered hill on the right.... behind the bamboo is the the main face.

Ethic inherited from Yangshuo

Climbing in China is similar to Korea, whereas the most popular crags can get crowded during the busy seasons. its not uncommon to find ropes hanging on many routes that at the moment are not being used. Or for for certain areas to "feel" overused with lots of people hanging around, with music, and lots of good vibes. Please wear a smile, be patient, make conversation and be polite. If there are any safety issues, speak up...the chinese, and hopefully all climbers, welcome professional instruction.

New routing is acceptable. Please please do not squeeze routes in-between others, nor hap-hazardly add routes. The overall climbing experience of the chinese community is at a novice level. It is very important to develop SAFE routes that are thoroughly cleaned. IF you have a question about adding an additional bolt...DO IT!! Also..It would be wise to find a local guru before developing and ask for some local tips. Thank You.

History

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there were routes on the back a long time ago, but since then a wall has been built and disrupted the routes... quite dangerous and best to stay away. those routes are not listed here.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Easy start, easy finish. Crux frustrates people and have been called sandbag. upgraded from 11a, but maybe not...its actually not difficult, just balance and timing put together.

FA: Qiu Jiang

Set by Tyson Wallace, 2011

sustained crux...good, but difficulty backs off too quickly

FA: 2009

This is the route that spits many people off. originally graded 12b. low percentage and committing with high feet.

Pumpy but fun through an intimidating overhang. anchor material is marginal, but safe? I used them in 2018.

first 2 bolts same as 5.11b. moves right past a mushroom tufa.

Warning, fourth bolt on this routes looks in really poor condition.

FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009

finger testing... one long draw at the crux helps immensely.

FA: Gerome Pouvreau, 2005

Todd Skinners route. An Endurance Party. Old bolts weren't removed when it was rebolted so clip the shiny new hangars instead of the rusty ones.

Set by Sam Lightner Jr & Todd Skinner

FA: Todd Skinner, 1990

To the right of the Todd skinner route. a hold broke so it has lost quality.

FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009

othewise known as the The Mirror becasue it is as featureless as one.

Set 2002

FA: Wang Qinghua, Feb 2014

maybe its a crack? smear the feet and you'll be happy. try hard or go home.

FA: Jenny Zhu & Emanuelle Lacoste, 2005

shares start with "Open team". climbs all the way to the rope anchor. if you stop short... grade is reduced to 12d.

FA: Steve McClure, 2001

Very enjoyable climb for the grade. The hanger is missing on the last bolt (10/2019) but the climbing to the anchor is easy.

Nice climbing on pockets.

FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2005

Nice climb with a crux end.

FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2005

This route is hidden on the backside of the crag. the only route still climbable near the wall. there isnt an anchor.

FA: Paul Qiu, 2003

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Activity

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