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The Egg

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 5
  • Ascents: 619
  • Aka: 鸡蛋山

Seasonality

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Description

The Egg is probably the most popular crag in Yangshuo and for good reasons. There are at least 37 routes on high quality rock with grades ranging from 5.7 to 5.12b. The climbs are mostly single pitch with a few multi pitch routes as well. The crag incorporates the East Face, North East Face, North Face and West Face. Because The Egg faces three sides it is possible to climb in either the sun or shade at any time of the day. The North and West faces stay mostly dry in the rain.

Access issues inherited from Yangshuo

Be aware: about 60% of the climbing occurs in a "scenic tourist park". As long as you travel by motorbike or bicycle the 100rmb entrance fee is not required. You will learn about this in the first few days in Yangshuo. It doesn't really concern climbers, but is pertinent info...especially when considering a taxi during inclement weather.

All of the land belongs to the Chinese government and has been appropriated to respective farming villages. Each crag and it's access is then controlled by either the village collectively or a specific person, so technically we as climbers are trespassing 95% of the time in China. However, most villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. On the contrary, certain crags have historically had issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Approach

As of 10/7/19.

Since construction is going on, the book's approach is slightly outdated. Once construction is complete getting to this crag will be much easier. Details about the year it will be complete is unknown.

Unfortunately, this also means that the view is now of dirt roads instead of green fields.

Get onto the G65 towards Ai Shan by turning left at the major intersection. The Vienna International Hotel should be on your left as you make the turn. Stay on this road until you spot a 5 star looking resort/hotel. While it is tempting to turn at this road, turn at the next left which actually has a complete road.

Turn left again and follow this road until you find Banyan Tree. Turn right just before the tree, do not follow the road the tree is on, that's for a different crag. Follow the road and eventually a dirt track will appear on the right. Keep going along this dirt track until you see a blue sign with faces on it. From there just follow the dirt track on foot.

Be careful during the monsoon season, as the mud can be quite slippery for ebikes.

Ethic inherited from Yangshuo

Climbing in China is similar to Korea, whereas the most popular crags can get crowded during the busy seasons. its not uncommon to find ropes hanging on many routes that at the moment are not being used. Or for for certain areas to "feel" overused with lots of people hanging around, with music, and lots of good vibes. Please wear a smile, be patient, make conversation and be polite. If there are any safety issues, speak up...the chinese, and hopefully all climbers, welcome professional instruction.

New routing is acceptable. Please please do not squeeze routes in-between others, nor hap-hazardly add routes. The overall climbing experience of the chinese community is at a novice level. It is very important to develop SAFE routes that are thoroughly cleaned. IF you have a question about adding an additional bolt...DO IT!! Also..It would be wise to find a local guru before developing and ask for some local tips. Thank You.

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