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Middle Finger

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 1
  • Aka: 中指峰

Seasonality

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Description

The Middle Finger is an imposing tower consisting of the North Face and South Face. The climbs on the North Face are in the shade until evening whilst the other routes are in the shade till noon.

Access issues inherited from Yangshuo

Be aware: about 60% of the climbing occurs in a "scenic tourist park". As long as you travel by motorbike or bicycle the 100rmb entrance fee is not required. You will learn about this in the first few days in Yangshuo. It doesn't really concern climbers, but is pertinent info...especially when considering a taxi during inclement weather.

All of the land belongs to the Chinese government and has been appropriated to respective farming villages. Each crag and it's access is then controlled by either the village collectively or a specific person, so technically we as climbers are trespassing 95% of the time in China. However, most villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. On the contrary, certain crags have historically had issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Ethic inherited from Yangshuo

Climbing in China is similar to Korea, whereas the most popular crags can get crowded during the busy seasons. its not uncommon to find ropes hanging on many routes that at the moment are not being used. Or for for certain areas to "feel" overused with lots of people hanging around, with music, and lots of good vibes. Please wear a smile, be patient, make conversation and be polite. If there are any safety issues, speak up...the chinese, and hopefully all climbers, welcome professional instruction.

New routing is acceptable. Please please do not squeeze routes in-between others, nor hap-hazardly add routes. The overall climbing experience of the chinese community is at a novice level. It is very important to develop SAFE routes that are thoroughly cleaned. IF you have a question about adding an additional bolt...DO IT!! Also..It would be wise to find a local guru before developing and ask for some local tips. Thank You.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.11c 25m
2 5.10c 15m
3 5.10b 17m
4 5.10c 25m

Climb is located on the North Face.

1st pitch: 5.11c, step off a boulder into a corner and follow it to a break. 2nd pitch: 5.10c, traverse right to the base of a crack. 3rd pitch: 5.10b, climb crack and wall to a ledge. 4th pitch: 5.10c, wall tending slightly leftward.

Descent is by abseil, 2 x 70m ropes allows descent in one abseil to the big ledge which is escaped via the tunnel at the left hand end.

FA: 2006

1 5.10c 45m
2 5.10a 20m
3 5.11b 25m

Climb is located on the North Face.

May have bolted belays.

FA: 2002

1 5.10d 45m
2 5.10d 45m

Climb is located on the North Face.

Traditional protection with bolted abseil anchors. Two ropes needed for descent.

FA: Paul Brunner & Pete Bailey, 1996

No information available

No information available

Located on the South Face: Exposed climbing up an unbelievable line.

Located on the South Face.

Located on the South Face: Good crack that takes gear well. One bolt at th crux of the 2nd pitch.

Located on the South Face.

Located on the South Face: a good warm up

Located on the South Face: Shares the start and anchor with Life in the Fast Lane.

connects most of the second pitch belays

Located on the South Face: Belay from ledge.

Located on the South Face: Good sustained climbing.

Located on the South Face: Corner to the left, finish by pulling hard on a hollow flake.

A pure crack that takes excellent gear. Move right at the overhang and up.

Super face climbing.

F.A. A Niu, A Hedesh

A reach and strenuous blunt arête followed by a blocky overhang.

Technical and balancy.

Tufa crack. Use the anchor half way to lower off.

Technical face climbing. Use the anchor half way to lower off.

This is a kiddies access pitch to bypass the 3 bolt start of Happy Diddler. Climb the route then belay from the anchor half way. By skipping the crux, Happy Diddler becomes a 3 smile 20m 5.11a and Spunk Shui becomes 5.12a.

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