This is the best route I climbed in Liming. More people shouldn't be so lazy and carry their shit up to this area. The path isn't visible anymore, but it's worth it.
Laybacked most of the lower flake, with a right foot jam. At the end of the flake went into the crack, fist,wide until you can climb the right and left crack simultaneously. Now you can either follow the left crack, which is pure fun and beautiful it widens up from small hands to hands and goes up to the anchor with pure joy. Steeeeep, and mostly hand jam jugs, a small pod to sit and enjoy the view. Unbelievable good.
The right crack felt harder and was much smaller in general, needed to fight a lot more to get up. But isn't harder than the lower section, so the grade doesn't change.
Possibly my hardest fight for an onsight to date (which isn't filling me with confidence for the rest of our time here). The route was also dirty as it probably hasn't been climbed in many years and has seen some heavy rain. Slid back down the offwidth section multiple times before somehow making it through. then what should have been an easy hand and fistcrack to the anchor was an absolute suffer fest where I almost hyperventilated and fainted. I couldn't remember what gear I had placed or how far it was below me. Wanted to give up and sit the whole time but somehow didn't. I could not climb again for the rest of the day. hopefully more of this to come!
Was dirty, meaning I had to squeeze extra hard on the long sections of .75 and 1. Thumb got a serious workout, and I could have used another .75 because I had about a 6m runout above the half way ledge. Top section was really fun. Felt stiff for a large hand climber.
- with
Yvonne Ho
Laybacked most of the lower flake, with a right foot jam. At the end of the flake went into the crack, fist,wide until you can climb the right and left crack simultaneously. Now you can either follow the left crack, which is pure fun and beautiful it widens up from small hands to hands and goes up to the anchor with pure joy. Steeeeep, and mostly hand jam jugs, a small pod to sit and enjoy the view. Unbelievable good.
The right crack felt harder and was much smaller in general, needed to fight a lot more to get up. But isn't harder than the lower section, so the grade doesn't change.