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Xiao Mo Yu Cave

  • Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 5-30 mins
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 146
  • Aka: 小墨雨洞

Seasonality

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Summary

All weather cave with steep hard climbs

Description

Xiaomoyu village is now the home to much of Kunming’s crags. The “Xiaomoyu Cave” is the most well-known of the crags and remains the highlight of any trip to Kunming, a beautiful natural feature with a full grade range of steep climbing, mostly hard climbing though. There are a few other crags though that are worth visiting. First, this is more like an extension of the Cave, there are a bunch of top quality climbs in the cornfield down and right of the Cave, this crag should be visible from the village as you approach the climbing area. Secondly, there is the TNT Wall, this is one of my favorite crags in Kunming, great lines ranging between 6a and 7c+, with a number of good climbs around 7a, a mixture of face climbing and fun roof climbing. Belayers please be aware of not standing under your climber at this crag, we’ve tried to clear the loose stuff, but not worth taking chances. A pleasant walk of about 25-30 minutes, through the forested mountain side acts a good warm up for the climbing. The last two walls are alongside each other, The Pregnancy Wall and the Honey Wall, bolted a few years ago, but remained relatively unknown (hence this website), some shorter climbing, ranging between 6a and 7c, with a couple of open projects (7c and beyond).

Approach

Where to stay

Many hotels and guesthouses in Kunming city

Ethic inherited from Mo Yu 墨雨

请自驾前往的岩友停车时不要阻碍交通,尊重当地居民的习俗和习惯,不要破坏农作物,谨慎用火,出于环保和保护岩壁的目的,请勿在岩壁下方烧火取暖或者烧烤,同时请勿使用油性笔在岩壁上题字或者留名。

小墨雨洞岩壁右侧已经有搭建好的旱厕供攀岩爱好者们使用,请文明如厕,手纸不要乱丢。

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes at the right side before the entrance to the cave

powerful move,bouldering style and short short route,like its name。

crazy holds,nothing in the wall,waiting for first ascent

another lay back route,wonderful and joyful。becare of the tree behind you。

nice bouldering move,short but fun,if you want to taste this area,try it!

crazy move,and wonderful balance,not a easy go

crimpy,sharp,classic and some loose rock,be careful when you climb it

short and normal route 石头比较碎,小心落石

classic route out of the cave,must do

big move,harder if you are not a tall guy,fun route

FA: 王清华, May 2019

extention above '4 Days XP' ,top is left side of the headjam download

FFA: 老向

FFA: 大魏

Cruisy moves to a boulder problem, was graded as 5.14a.

FA: 马自达

与 Million Ma 共顶

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