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Description

Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging climbing. A few climbs like "My Pain For Your Pleasure" or "Van Damned" deserve a try. Also home to the current two sport climbing multi pitches of Linan.

Better wear a helmet, as some of the routes are not often climbed and might have a few small loose rocks.

The belay area might be a bit steep at some point. Be careful.

Access issues inherited from 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head

For those who do not speak any Chinese, getting to this crag may be quite troublesome, however not impossible. First of all, if you are coming from Hangzhou then you need to take a bus from the Hangzhou West Bus Station to Gao Hong (高虹) which should only cost 15 RMB and take about 2 hours.

From Gao Hong you can take a mini bus for around 60 RMB total (seats 7-9 people) and get dropped off directly at the foot of the mountain. You can arrange to meet up with the mini bus driver beforehand and she can meet you when you hop off the bus. Her number is +86 138 6800 8149.

The village at the foot of the mountain is Longshan or Longshancun.

If you are coming straight from Shanghai, a mini van (10 seats) rented for the weekend, with driver, costs around 2000RMB.

Approach

Left of Lion's Head. Get passed Lower 40s and Mika's Ledge. The Prow starts right at the corner.

Ethic inherited from 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head

Routes

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Grade Route

Can be an alternative start to the first pitch of White China.

Set by Dave Gliddon

Pitch 1 : 5.10b Pitch 2 : 5.10a Pitch 3 : 5.10c Pitch 4 : 5.9

Set by Dave Gliddon & Andrew Hedesh

Set by Joe Langwald & Marcos Costas

Set by Marcos Costas & Joe Langwald

Set by Marcos Costas & Joe Langwald

Set by Joe Langwald

Easy short chimney climbing.

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Dave Gliddon & Andrew Hedesh

Set by Andrew Hedesh

Set by Dave Gliddon

Pitch 1 : 5.12a Pitch 2 : 5.12d Pitch 3 : 5.11a

Set by Francis Haden

Activity

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