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Description

Impressive looking, vertical to overhanging crag. Even the easy routes are not that easy. But surely nice climbing in perspective.

A massive roof up on top of the mountain allows most of the routes of this sector to remain dry under the rain.

Half of the route starts off a 2 meters wide ledge that goes up to 8 meters. Be careful while belaying.

Access issues inherited from Lion's Head 狮头岩

For those who do not speak any Chinese, getting to this crag may be quite troublesome, however not impossible. First of all, if you are coming from Hangzhou then you need to take a bus from the Hangzhou West Bus Station to Gao Hong (高虹) which should only cost 15 RMB and take about 2 hours.

From Gao Hong you can take a mini bus for around 60 RMB total (seats 7-9 people) and get dropped off directly at the foot of the mountain. You can arrange to meet up with the mini bus driver beforehand and she can meet you when you hop off the bus. Her number is +86 138 6800 8149.

The village at the foot of the mountain is Longshan or Longshancun.

If you are coming straight from Shanghai, a mini van (10 seats) rented for the weekend, with driver, costs around 2000RMB.

Approach

Higher to the left after arriving at Lower 40's.

Ethic inherited from Lion's Head 狮头岩

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.8
2 5.9
3 5.8
4 5.9
5 5.10b

Serious old school chimney climbing. The 5th pitch is face climbing and slightly harder than the rest. Rap down from the set of anchors on the left of the relay of the 4th pitch (2 raps of 35m). If you only have one 60m rope, you can abseil from the anchors of White China, across the platform.

P1: 5.8 9 bolts P2: 5.9 8 bolts P3: 5.8 6 bolts P4: 5.9+ 8 bolts P5: 5.10 5 bolts

Set by Joe Langwald & Andrew Hedesh, 2017

Set by Tyson Wallace

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Andrew Hedesh & Joe Langwald

Set by Andrew Hedesh, Joe Langwald & Dave Gliddon

Set by Joe Langwald

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Dave Gliddon

Starts on top of Red Beans And Rice

Set by Joe Langwald & Marcos Costa

FA: Marcos Costa

Set by Joe Langwald

Set by Dave Gliddon

Crack climbing

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Andrew Hedesh

Set by Joe Langwald & Dave Gliddon

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Andrew Hedesh

Starts from the top of Medicinal

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Dave Gliddon

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