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Description

Slab to vertical climbing. Pretty impressive sector high above the bamboo forest. Top anchors leading to a fix rope which is the bottom of the Highlands sector.

The belay area is not the most comfortable, but still ok.

Access issues inherited from 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head

For those who do not speak any Chinese, getting to this crag may be quite troublesome, however not impossible. First of all, if you are coming from Hangzhou then you need to take a bus from the Hangzhou West Bus Station to Gao Hong (高虹) which should only cost 15 RMB and take about 2 hours.

From Gao Hong you can take a mini bus for around 60 RMB total (seats 7-9 people) and get dropped off directly at the foot of the mountain. You can arrange to meet up with the mini bus driver beforehand and she can meet you when you hop off the bus. Her number is +86 138 6800 8149.

The village at the foot of the mountain is Longshan or Longshancun.

If you are coming straight from Shanghai, a mini van (10 seats) rented for the weekend, with driver, costs around 2000RMB.

Approach

Right side of Lion's Head. Get passed Lower 40s and Mika's Ledge. You will find a fixed rope to the right which you need to pull on to hike up the steep slope. The Midlands lie on the edge up there.

Ethic inherited from 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head

Routes

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Grade Route

Set by Andrew Hedesh

Set by Andrew Hedesh

Set by Joe Langwald

A must do on the Midlands

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Dave Gliddon

Set by Andrew Hedesh

Set by 猴子 & Andrew Hedesh

Set by Joe Langwald

Set by Joe Langwald

35 meters long traverse on the edge on top of the Midlands. Marks the bottom of the Highlands.

Set by Andrew Hedesh

Activity

Check out what is happening in Midlands.