临安狮头岩 Lion's Head All Sport climbing104 routes in crag
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Situated in a beautiful bamboo forest, high up in the mountains, with some spectacular views and excellent quality rock.
An impressive looking crag deep in the mountainous bamboo forests of Lin'an.
Here is a link to the latest topo :
For more information please check out the blog of Joe Langwald, one of the developers behind this beautiful crag. Be sure to use google chrome so you can translate!
Also, check out Climb China - an absolute must have guide book if you are thinking of coming to China to climb. You can find it here - http://www.climbchina.net/
For those who do not speak any Chinese, getting to this crag may be quite troublesome, however not impossible. First of all, if you are coming from Hangzhou then you need to take a bus from the Hangzhou West Bus Station to Gao Hong (高虹) which should only cost 15 RMB and take about 2 hours.
From Gao Hong you can take a mini bus for around 60 RMB total (seats 7-9 people) and get dropped off directly at the foot of the mountain. You can arrange to meet up with the mini bus driver beforehand and she can meet you when you hop off the bus. Her number is +86 138 6800 8149.
The village at the foot of the mountain is Longshan or Longshancun.
If you are coming straight from Shanghai, a mini van (10 seats) rented for the weekend, with driver, costs around 2000RMB.
Get out from the village through the south entrance, cross the bridge and look for the path starting up to your right.
A steep approach in parts so be careful. The hike in takes about 30 minutes and is marked with stickers on bamboo trees. The path is well trodden so you can't really lose your way. Be sure not to damage any bamboo trees as they are part of a bamboo forest farm.
You may wish to bring a helmet. Although this is a sport crag there are several multi-pitch lines and still a lot of loose rock high up which is prone to becoming air-borne.
Where to stay
There are several guesthouses in the main village. Most are extremely modern and well equipped with wifi, hot showers, air conditioning and television. A night here will cost around 70-100 RMB which includes 3 meals. Beer, water and toiletries will cost more.
Call +86 159 6886 7008 to book a room.
Another option is +86 138 6802 4301 (Luo laoban).
Be sure to prepare yourself with all your own necessities as there is no conventional shop in the village.
Please read this before going:
This is a great example of some of the rapid crag development happening here in China. The area is only a few years old and still does have a lot of potential for more. Especially hard, multi pitch lines!
Check out what is happening in 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head.