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Description

This HUGE sandstone crag seems to have been bolted up for a competition and then largely forgotten about. Around a dozen single pitch routes at the extreme RH end of the lower tier and tons of space for more. Now the downside. The place is within a large bamboo forest and so lots of mosquitos and very shady at the base, hence the rapid growth of moss and lichen. The first 4-5m of each route very very mossy/dirty (see pics May 2016). If you visit then bring a wire brush or 3 and a big cleanup team. Also, weirdly a lot of derelict infrastructure around including movie set materials and a large decaying platform built on bamboo scaffold that compromises several of the RH routes.

Machine translated from Rocklizard: Overall the wall angle of 70 degrees to 80 degrees, local depression, eaves. Bow section line 23 of the left-most piece of the rock face is my repair and noodles, use 60 Mi Shengsuo climbing knot group is appropriate, adequate protection point, each up to about 18 coupons, experts do not hang the whole line some local difficulty difficult, did not have time tried, if also the most difficult to climb 12D feel it? Yangshuo 12D 12D not Shirakawa Oh! Not the same style. If there are niggling may AID past. Line Protection Station has two drop rings fall remember when knotted rope tail Oh. ATC is best to use reverso or decline. Single line segment about sixteen seven, have lower ring, the difficulty in about 5.9 to 5.12, start some moss, cleaned not very clean, need follow-up. Note : Wear a helmet, be careful rockfall. With a long trousers (Quick-drying underwear), rock climbing wear. Bamboo mosquitoes, we recommend that each person bring a large pot of "gunmen" at any mosquito control, especially over time.

Approach

From the village of Shiqiancun :

(a) Park in the village car park. Walk west towards the cliff, head left along the farmer's track and then head directly up the hillside on a good and well made track. As the track levels and turns S look R to see the crag and branch right. A well made staircase leads down and R to the base of the routes. About 25 mins of sweaty trail.

(b) Locate the dirt road at the N edge of the village. Head up the hillside in gentle loops. The track ends under the big bamboo platform at the R end of the crag. The routes are immediately above you. There is one steep part past the weird movie set, good ground clearance advisable.

GPS 29.334591 121.768912 Machine translated from Rocklizard:

Shanghai, take the Hangzhou Bay Bridge ------ to the same three high-speed, to Ninghai direction. Under "Ninghai" high-speed exit, go east, "Maydan road", like the West Line, 38 highway Passes through, Dajiahe town, sea barrows, the town of the Western Zhou Dynasty. To four weeks after the town south direction, take the "Si West Line." To Sizhou Town direction. Along the way through the summer leaves the village, the cold water hole, car Lingtou, Wong Nai bridge, Ho Po Village, the home village of Ao, Zhang Ao village; After the Sizhou Town, take the "long-Si" After Long Tan Hang, Head to: "Zhi before the village." Yeongam mountain temple.

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